Time to pack up and say adios...no hasta la vista...

Thursday, November 11, 2004

Now, wait minute...no one told me that this visit had to end. Unfair! Sue, sue, sue. I cannot leave, I have waaaaay tooooo much more that must be done.

Please send cash and new airline ticket, por favor. Alms for the sad one? No, I guess not. Stop, I have done extremely well, especially in the face of limited ability to walk for a few days. Content, satisfied and thrilled. Now, I want to read and hear from all of you as to your experiences, OK not as long and detailed as mine, but muchas gracias for bearing with me! It was an enormously eventful unforgetable sojourn, far from a vacation, lots of work but tons of fun and laughter and gaping in awe at the beauty of some casas and villas and the ever-amazing vistas all around the Bahia de Banderas, north, center and south!

Do not be content to sit and stare on la playa. This area has so much to offer. Rent a vehicle and drive, visit the small local villages where time remains slow and life is simple yet rich. I learned so much from experiencing a wide range of taco stands, delving into the way of life for so many people around me, smelling, tasting, listening to day to day conversations.

No time nor will to sleep, so I arose before 7:30am and planned what all I wished to do during my last hours here in this beautiful land. Used up nearly all my last membership card at the cyber cafe and bid adios until next time and decided it best eat a little something since airline food fails us inevitably and the fridge in San Francisco is devoid of everything but some crisp apples. I had spotted earlier a taco stand I ate at years ago and thought had disappeared for a while and now it was back, with the same name and in the same location. Was it me or déjà vu? So, I felt it had my name on it...Peter and Carmen's Tacos, Manuel Dieguez at Olas Altas near the beach OT/SS. 322-289-3941, 9am-11pm Closed Sunday.
Peter is deceased, Carmen has moved, but sons Alex and Juan run this 20+ year old stand which offers many local favorites at great prices, all served with four fine salsas. Adobada, carne asada, chorizo, pollo, birria, tortas of ham, cheese, pork, chicken or beef 20p, hamburger 25p and hot dog 10p, Only four chairs. Had a fine torta since the hamburgers were not ready yet [?]. Back to pack some more, squeeze, push, must be all those bags of hibiscus flowers and the kilo of coffee and that book on old Vallarta, but not the piles of magazines and brochures...no! Sigh, zipped up, like after a splurge and trying to get the zipper up the jeans. Now was my time to myself, to sit and gaze and ponder and meditate and space out on the balcony, watching wave after wave crash onto the beach, kids screaming and playing, vendors trying to make some pesos and sun rays glittering on the water. Sounds like my first day here.

Words from "Love Affair" come to my mind: "What is it about this place? Makes you want to whisper...so peaceful...like another world. Never seen such vivid colors. Even the green seems greener." And off the jet headed north to another land, another people, but part of me, my soul, my spirit will always reside in my beloved Puerto Vallarta forever.

garyrbeck

San Francisco, CA.

garyrbeck1@yahoo.com 

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Last day for a little while

Wednesday, November 10

Awakened by two amigos saying adios, hasta la vista, until next time, at 6:20am as they prepped for the sad slow ride to the aeropuerto and home, of sorts. Abandoned, I sure could not go back to sleep so after laying silent and mulling the day's upcoming events, I arose and hit the laptop to do as much work as possible offline before going to the cyber cafe where I have to pay. Next time I really need Internet access in my casa. Realizing that this is my last full day, I wished to hike around town south of Río Cuale before the sun sent hot rays beating on the streets where no bay breezes penetrated. There were five taco stands I needed to locate, check menu and write down info, plus have lunch at one before that mission could be recorded as done at least for the time being, as there are many more I did not have written down and still others for which I had no descriptions or locations. Before leaving the casa and pool, I knew which stand I just had to eat at due to very tempting descriptions from two amigas. So, I organized them on a map and wrote which I would head to first, second, third, eliminating as much backtracking as possible, thus ending at the one where I would sample lunch. I imagine I create quite stir while jotting notes at stands where the employees and customers stare and wonder who is this gringo, loco or what? I shrug it off with smile and say 'adios'. On I trudge, crossing streets, many times at risk of body, always looking both ways since drivers here love to back up on one way streets. Where are the transit cops we have seen all over the place this trip...stopping another tourist for cash? Watch the cobblestones and small ruts carefully so as not to twist an ankle, or worse! I meander the corners at will, sensing that this town is mine too, not referring to the map all that much. Familiar shops and signs are spotted everywhere. Have I not walked past that place a dozen times in the past wonderful three weeks? Oh, that store is showing signs of life so maybe the owners are going to open after all. Gave it up for dead two weeks ago.

There it is, the hunger pains will soon be abated: Marisma's Fish Taco I and II
Naranjo 320 between Basilio Badillo and Venustiano Carranza OT/SS; second at Marina Vallarta Condominios Marina del Rey behind Neptuno Plaza. 222-1395. 9am-5pm Closed Monday.
Sherry says by far the best 10p fish taco she ever had, shrimp taco 12p both battered and deep-fried. Also smoked marlin quesadilla 18p, ceviche tostada 7p and agua fresca as guava 6p. Served with five homemade salsas as avocado cilantro, fresca, soy with onion. Clean, bar seating at the cart and chairs at table under a magnificent Ficus tree. Brenda recommends this stand very popular with locals and visitors.

This is the first taco stand I have seen where they use a deep fat fryer so that in and of itself interested me. And was it good, shrimp and fish. Unusual but superb and their sauces were marvelous especially the avocado/cilantro creamy light sauce. One young lady is learning English and doing quite well, so it was fun conversing with her, each of us teaching a few words or phrases of the other's native tongue. A real cutie, too. I loved how she asked me a couple times if I liked the comida. Of course the answer was a loud resounding si en Español. After a stop at a beautiful condo apartment which the owners wish to rent weekly, I headed on down the hill to Olas Altas flat land and was right back in the heartbeat of OldTown where I love, live and breathe...and hate to depart. Big night ahead so back to the sofa and some news and reading to rest my feet and back. Cool breezes bathed me as I relaxed and thought back over the past 22 days. Waves of memories crossed my conscience, many of which I would never forget as they were that impressive and pleasant. New and old amigos to share the sunlight with on days to follow, filled with laughter and craziness. I can envision it all now in the near distance. Keeps your spirit invigorated though those dark and dismal days which never seem to end.

Before I know it, the clock marks 7:30pm and I am not even presentable for my public. Hurriedly I don a bright tropical parrot shirt and blue shorts and off I go to Restaurant Row to the old 180 [before that Chef Roger] Boca Bento, Basilio Badillo 180 OT/SS. 222-9108 www.bocabento.com Hours unannounced.
New owner remodeled and opened Latina Asiatica fusion hot spot November 11, 2004. Small tapas-style plates combining the two styles of cooking are presented in an Asian set of rooms highlighted by a golden Buddha statue, pebbles, candles and fabricated palapa roof. Stylish spot needs reports of the food items. Met with the new owners and some other amigos but then the volume of people increased such that it was time for me to exit and off I went to type a little before the next and final big event of this trip.

N. O. [New Orleans] Jazz concert was held on the beach beteen La Palapa and El Dorado in front of the whale sculpture on 11/10/04, part of the ongoing film festival. It was preceded by a free concert on the malecon by Juan Gabriel, one of Mexico's top pop male artists. I did not attend that one due to fears of enormous crowds [which were accurate].

The beach concert was free, with bamboo and wood chairs supplied by El Dorado and plastic ones by La Palapa in a half moon facing east. The stage was erected in two levels with concert speakers flanking in various areas. Waiters served cool drinks unobtrusively though the temperature was most pleasant with light breezes off the bay. The audience was most receptive but sadly there was room
for more goers. El Dorado set up a beach bar table with premixed margaritas behind long tables under palapas for diners and listeners. Several movers and shakers were there, warmly greeted by owner Luis Wulff and his mother Nelly Barquette.

Don Harris from New Orleans, sweating profuselyand removing his tie pronto, led his 4 piece band in a beginning light jazz number which went on for almost 15 minutes, highlighting each musician whom he softly introduced. He played sax, there were two guitarists, one keyboard master and a percussionist/drummer. The crowd appeared to love each one in their own way with hearty applause after each
special solo. Don would sing and hum at times and even jumped into playing keyboard a couple times before it was covered with Marti Gras plumes. A fun time was had when he bounced onto the drums with hard rat-a-tats with the crowd going wild. His music really did swing.

Highlights I wrote down were My Cheri Amour [30-year-old Stevie Wonder song], Feel Like Making Love [Roberta Flack from the '70's], and a long, wild, driving medley of Marti Gras songs made popular he said by the locals whom he termed
'Indians'. I did wonder if they were the Cajuns, known for very fine musical numbers and bands for those of us who have visited this fabulous American city.

He then broke for a '15 minute' break but after a while, I headed upstairs since I had much to do before turning in for the night before I left the next day, sadly, but happy knowing I will be back and enjoy more fine musical events. I could hear more jazz music as I packed and organized.

Look for good news coming from the Green Chairs with live music according to their manager starting in December and continuing 4-8pm until April!!!

Monday, November 8

Once a year, all people of the world celebrate their favorite day, the super birthday of Gary. Cards, letter, flowers flow in...oh, well a couple and all but two of those were by email, but a huge rich chocolate cake ordered by that mysterious ultra-famous vixen of Florida is delivered to our casa by special private van and Fidel informs the lucky superstar celebrity upstairs lounging agelessly by the pool signing autographs and posing for all the town's paparazzi that the specially made pastry awaits my tasting with a multitude of friends and employees downstairs. Wow, and this is only 9:30am!!! Fans cannot be controlled, rainbow balloons swell in large clusters over the bay as far as the eye can see, the parasailers carry greeting signs, bi-planes soar overhead spraying pure white smoke spelling out letters of well wishes, thousands of fireworks are readied for darkness, every top chef in town is preparing his/her special creations in hopes his entourage will grace their place and enable them to be pictured on the front page of every local paper and magazine...oh, it is time to awake and shower. Where was I? Yawn. At least the cake, van, Fidel part did really happen...really, honestly! Now the question of the week, what does one do after devouring a slab of ultra-rich triple choco cake, besides jog, and my ankle will definitely not allow that? I opted for a warm shower and a short walk to greet all the well-wishers. Even the maid and downstairs desk clerk received a large piece of the decadence. Still lacking a whole lot of ability to hike for blocks shopping and stopping for a bite to eat for lunch, we aimed for nearby ¡Chile's! where mi amigos had not been yet. Always a treat and even though this day was shaping to return to past weeks of high heat and humidity, we snared a table in the rear in the jungle where light air currents cooled the shaded area. Pure joy. Chicken and burgers are the top faves here and do them well indeed at very good prices. Spit-bbq chicken 59p [ready around 11:30am] over potato chunks is wonderful as are the plump hamburgers 53p [best in Vallarta?] and potato salad. Mi amigos treated me in grand honor of my birthday. Gracias.

Recovery was in full force and I was able to walk to my local A/C cyber cafe and catch up with emails from people writing to set up appointments for conversing, exchanging, discussing work in and around PV, trips and other social events, in addition to trips to condos and villas to look around and become familiar with their locations, amenities and desirability. I always have my organizer handy [my life's blood] and my digital camera with an extra set of batteries as they do not last long between charges. I also found it worthwhile to include a small bottle of mineral water, a pen and a small street map in my shoulder bag which carried all these items snugly and securely. Look for the guy with the black and orange tote! Completely organized and prevents losing valuable items or leaving them in the casa where they will do no good. Roomies were off buying up the town and I meandered the cobblestone streets, passing small cafes and taco stands, some bustling, others empty, jotting down pertinent information for use late and checking the small tiendas offering everything from cheap souvenirs to tee shirts to dressy clothes to fine ceramics. Hmmm, maybe a little mango ice cream has my name on it? Quality shops for cold helados in SouthSide are Pie in the Sky [from Bucerias], Once Upon a Time and Dolphy. Time to head home and sit gazing from the balcony as the bay beckons me with its hypnotic waves. The sun is slowly dipping lower in the western horizon earlier than a few weeks ago, aided by the loss of daylight time. We learned that the hard way when we planned our Las Carmelitas sunset excursion! Enjoyed two phone calls from well-wishers and ended up lounging on the sofa a watching the news for a bit. In come the amigos and time to decide a difficult daily dilemma...where are we having dinner tonight??? Yes, no, maybe, vote, go. Sorry, it still had to be a taxi for means of arrival and off we sped to a transplanted historical landmark only visitors or residents from the '50s to mid-'80s would be aware of:

Tony's Please, Lázaro Cárdenas 446 near Jacarandas OT/SS. 5:30-11pm, high season 4-11pm Closed Sunday.
Tony's son serves up well-priced eclectic menu of Andalusa [garbanzo] soup 30p, garlic egg soup 26p, frogs' legs 98p, Mexican tenderloin tips 72p, Mexican plate 72p, chicken crêpes 70p, chicken livers 72p, chicken tetrazzine 88p, fish filet white wine shrimp cream sauce 90p and fish filet Veracruzana 88p. Father owned the 1960's-80's original on Encino near Río Cuale, which was a huge local favorite complete with pool table, rowdy customers and long lines. Menu here remains almost identical with same cooks.
Remarkably, the food swills in my mouth taking me back, waaaaay back, to when our group, some gone now, ate nearly every night at father Tony's spot right by the Río Cuale years ago, where Liz and Dick and the who's who of Hollywood dined amid the drunks and revelers. We used to sit around a busy pool table and waited for nephew Alex to inform us our table was ready. He always knew what each diner would be drinking and a tray of cold ones appeared without even being asked. I had worked my way through the extensive eclectic menu and loved every dish I had. The old story goes two ways as to how the restaurant got its name: 1] A painter of the wall next to the door did not know ho to spell 'place' so it came out Tony's Please; 2] The name stuck because everyone would hail a taxi and tell the driver, 'Tony's, please.' Maybe we will never know which is true, or neither! He made what many of us considered a huge blunder by abandoning this location for a new huge site up on the highway with fine view under an enormous palapa. No one ventured that far and he slowly lost money except for the few loyal guests as us and the large number of beer-drinking pool players [he now had 4 tables]. Then he disappeared with his son to later surface at this location with the same employees and menu. Good to be 'sort of' home again to that same wonderful and reasonable food of many nationalities. Feeling really good and pleasantly full, I agreed to walk down to the main drag, passing Celia's place of pozole [still not been there] and an herb tienda where I will return to purchase dried hibiscus flowers for making the red Jamaica refresher back home [high in vitamin C].

Tuesday, November 9

What? Two full days left. Just cannot be true, really? But when I think back to the first pages of this record of my activities, some events seem so distant, like I really only met that person 3 weeks ago and now we are seeing each other so often and warmly? Time flies, for sure, but what a lot has come down and so much progress has been made. I thought that my May trip with meeting condo/villa/shop and restaurant owners and managers, bopping from place to place, was really great and now this even longer trip has led me on a far different course, one of meeting many people from all walks of life, quite a few from Internet connections, and the common thread has been the friendliness and reality of these fine people. I so hope some of these friendships will continue and grow in the future. OK, off my soapbox. Up very early, tired of sleeping and half asleep thinking about all the tasks I wish and need to accomplish soon, cafe'd, up to sunny rooftop pool and meet my roomies, one in the sun [the blood] and the blond in the shade reading! Stayed out of the water so as not to cool my foot, I sat at the pool's edge and talked with a young couple with 2 kids who were in town for an expansive wedding at a villa in Conchas Chinas. Vows on the beach at sunset with champagne toasts and buffet dinner spread out with the wide city and bay view below. The rehearsal dinner was held at the prestigious Cafe de Artistes the night before, for a pretty penny I am certain. Oddly I had sat on our balcony looking south and spotted a large villa bathed in amber lights, top to bottom and now I wonder if that was the place, which I had never seen lit like that prior.

Off to a coffee appointment with a lady who runs a sailing company. Great venture filling a void in PV's activities. We met at Dee's Coffee Company and I had to try her iced Chai tea frappuccino, what a cool refreshing dream. We caught up on past and current events and had a delightful time discussing her ideas and hopes. We all wish her best of luck. Had to run after our drinks were consumed and meet for lunch at the Beach Café [The Green Chairs], Amapas 177 on Playa Los Muertos OT/SS. We sat upstairs in the newly painted expanse overlooking the palapas and beach activities plus that beautiful bay and city view. Great for when you do not wish sand between your toes but not miss much of the happenings. We had a fine fresh mahi mahi burger with tartar sauce made to order and good fries. Talked a long time with the manager and he informed us that their musical program would restart soon with performances daily 4-8pm with styles ranging from pop to Latin to R & B to rock to reggae, etc. Sounds like a great way to spend that 'empty' time between lunch and going out. Forget the siesta. Bid adios as my friends went off shopping on their last day in Paradise this trip and I headed back to my laptop and rest in the shade. I did manage to stroll to several spots checking menus and prices. Took my camera out later for a few needed shots of the area for use on websites. I burned a CD at my cyber cafe for 35p and emptied the memory card to zero. Now I have plenty of space for tomorrow's needed pictures if I connect with my driver, which I should, with instructions of our final missions.

My roomies last night, so no taco stand for us. We went through the various choices and they opted to go somewhere that they had never visited, good idea. Off we walked on Restaurant Row to Roberto's Puerto Nuevo, Basilio Badillo 283 OT/SS.222-6210, 222-4959 www.robertosptonuevo.com <;http://www.robertosptonuevo.c...; Noon-11:30pm
Since 1988, seafood is all that you find here and he serves it many ways, all Pacific and fresh. Creative dishes include smoked marlin 66p, seafood-stuffed chiles 60p, gazpacho soup 42p, fried calamari 60p, 6 mussels 60p, mahi mahi [Dorado] 4 ways 105p, fish filet mignon with bacon 105p, whole huachinango [red snapper] 105p, garlic butter fresh catch 94p, shrimp diablo 187p, huge seafood platter, octopus, spaghetti marinara 138p, seafood casserole 132p, chicken au vin 105p and rib eye 154p. Very popular, ranked high, a local favorite and right on Restaurant Row, you may opt for the second floor interior A/C room.

I have felt for a long time that he serves up some of the freshest seafood and most creative dishes. We were not disappointed, not one single dish being below wonderful. I love the use of banana leaves for steaming filets to keep them very moist and flavorful and the idea of wrapping my mahi mahi in a strip of bacon before grilling added a wonderful unexpected extra flavor. Very tasty soups too, though the mussels we wished to share were unavailable. Since the whole fish was smaller than usual, he sent out two fish with the flesh flaking off with a wonderful crusty skin imparting terrific pleasure. Winners all around. And a great send off from beautiful visit for mi amigos. Time to head home early since they had a lot to prepare and pack before a very early departure time tomorrow 'oh dark hundred'.

Saturday, November 6

Yes, this is a big day, one I have looked forward to for over 2 years. I have been north to Punta de Mita, as far back as 1981, then more recently Huancaxtle and Bucerias three times [I adore this little village, and what a profusion of colorful restaurants there, music hot spot, rental and real estate prices skyrocketing], but longer to venture farther up the state of Nayarit to Sayulita, a surfing center with good beaches, waves and some beachfront cafes. First, I had an appt. with a new amigo for conversation so we agreed upon a meeting at Dee's Coffee Company, Rodrigo Gomez 120 near Amapas OT/SS. 222-1197 deerindt@hotmail.com 7am-10pm.

Deanne Rindt's small popular cafe serving warm breakfast bagel of ham, cheese, tomato, egg, nicely toasted [Paco says excellent] 35p, turkey, ham, chicken salad or health sandwich 50p, roast beef 55p. Fresh smoothies 25p, caramel latte 27p, 16 oz. latte 25p, frappes 28-35p. Try her iced Chai tea frappuccino. Wonderful Espresso Dark Roast coffee 120p/kg. Soups coming soon. I then hike quickly to another condo I have stayed in, straight out of Architectural Digest and in someone else’s budget plans and met mi amiga for a venture north after a few local errands. On we head, past Nuevo Vallarta and right near Bucerias veer right on the highway not going on to Punta. Land becomes much less populated with large stretches of jungle and scrubland, less billboards and condos! Slowly we creep into Sayulita and on dirt roads narrow enough for one car but used for two-way traffic, we edge toward the Pacific Ocean. Reaching a parking spot one block from the ocean waves, we settle in and grab what we need. I head to a library/bookstore then to a cyber café which I am amazed was installed with high speed DSL last week and in 2 months will have wireless abilities, all at prices quite a bit higher than back in PV. We agree to meet later and I start my sandaling up and down the beach reading menus, jotting info and deciding where I wish to have my one meal here. Funny I choose the fave spot of my friend and we sit down later for a most enjoyable lunch right on the beach, covered by a combination of palapas and umbrellas. The choices are all seafood, fine by me.

Saturday, November 6 cont’d

Where we dined was El Costeño, Delfin at la playa, Sayulita, Nayarit. Closed Thursday

Funky, feet in the sand, but longtime spot slowly serves very fresh and flavorful seafood as mahi filet 5 styles 80p, whole huachinango 4 styles 80p, shrimp 5 styles 90p, marlin and fish tacos 3 for 50p, shrimp salad 90p, Ruperto's shrimp pasta 90p, guacamole 40p and salsa and chips. Highlight was a drop-by of a transplanted Argentinean couple who were widely grinning musicians with their own compositions and thrilled the onlookers with beautiful bouncy tunes before offering their CD for sale. They exuded a feel-good feeling, a high without any assistance, a love of life and family and my friend related how she had been present during the final hour of this young lady's home birth, the air filled with the father's light guitar strumming and low humming of Spanish love songs as the baby began his life outside the womb. A beautiful way to enter this world, softly and with great outpouring love. One of a kind, I do feel. Sadly realizing this day was slipping away, we had to forego the trip farther up the coast to San Pancho [for the next trip north] and I headed eventually by bus to the Sheraton where we had to get out and transfer to a city bus to Olas Altas. I broke into deep shivers stepping into the cool breezes of the bay at night and raced home to bundle in a blanket. I stayed in bed trying to warm and drifted in and out of sleep for 17 hours, realizing I had developed a fever which finally broke into a pool of moisture soaking the bed. I maneuvered around to dry spots and every so often awoke and moved again, reaching for a dry pillow and sheet. Such a mystery, for I felt fine, it was not the food or flu. I stayed in and bid adios to mi amigos for their dinner out. It was best for me to stay still and soak my foot and rest. I could not even type on my laptop so I knew all was far from well in Paradise!

Sunday, November 7

Although the sun came up bright with clear skies and lots of late am heat, I still felt a slight chill and stayed close to the bed, bathroom and water. Several concerned people called me offering assistance but I was already in good hands. I tried to eat a little take-out chicken my roomies had picked up for our lunch since I could not move far and started thinking that the fever resulted from a sandal scrape and resulting blister which had allowed germs into my blood stream and caused this infection which my body fought with heat, thus a fever. I had started placing a bacterial cream on the area topped with fresh Band-Aids and popped antibiotics which the farmacia prescribed for my ailment. Within 2 hours the pain in my foot was 50% reduced and I was able to walk around the condo not too painfully. Still, it was more sleep for me and some chatting with my friends. I actually started doing a bit of work when not in bed or on the balcony watching the beach scenes. Maybe I was going to survive! When I heard talk about blood poisoning and doctor trips, I willed myself to improve and fast...and did. Each couple hours brought lessened pain and though the sore looked quite bad, I kept it treated and covered when not in hot water in the tub. Hard to keep a restaurant reviewer in his casa for all that long, we walked a short block and a half back to one of our fun favorite local spots, Mama Dolores Diner, Olas Altas 534B near Pulpito OT/SS. I had in mind the Sunday special worth stopping by often for: Sunday turkey dinner with all the trimmings 5pm-10pm 110p; choice of white or dark meat, good dressing, real mashed potatoes, crisp fresh veggies and cranberry sauce. My friends opted for bbq ribs and a whole huachinango [red snapper] with a great sauce, beautifully presented. Mama D was there and all the staff made us feel at home and my illness very distant. We love this place and people. Tired, it was home for me while my friends went out on the town for a long sojourn. I think I slept another 10 hours. Enough of this already! Places to go, people to see, things to do...

Thursday, November 4

We had to arise early, coffee, shower and out the door for an appt. at 9am for one last visit and bid for the property in Amapas. Place is looking better and better, more questions answered. I hope he wins the battle since even though he says he will be untouched, I imagine he will be quite disappointed. Several days may provide a solution, but this mission could drag on and on as prospective buyers know quite well. All of us head out to Beach Café [The Green Chairs], Amapas 177 on Playa Los Muertos OT/SS. 222-1371 thebeachcafe@hotmail.com askus@thebeachcafe.com www.thebeachcafe.com 8am-9pm
Beach food served in plastic, but what a super people-watching spot! Sushi quite good when available, as Philadelphia Maki 60p, ceviche, fish 55p or shrimp 85p, pollo nachos 50p, quesadillas 45-75p, Tex-Mex Beach Bowls full/half chicken 45/80p, steak 100/55p, shrimp 120/65p, stir-fries full 90-130p, half 50-70p, burritos 40-60p [smoked marlin 50p!], enchiladas 75-95p. Live music 4-8pm some nights, call first. Was told after annual Latin Fever, the concerts should start in full after December 1st. Off he flew leaving us in the sand and near the waves, sipping a limonada or te helado [iced tea]. Oh well, somebody's got to do it...

Weather, though quite sunny with clear blue skies and some humidity has beeen moderated by the steady dependable brisas drifting in off the bahia. A couple blocks up from the beach and you quickly find the tempertures higher and feel no breeze to cool your skin. Shopping and long walking are best done before 10am and after 2pm, the hours of the long-gone Mexican siesta. Work is conducted continually now to increase the income from the tourists when they are in town, namely in the season called high, partially making up for the poor business in value season. Have not been down to the sunset gatherings of Internet people for several days and suppose they are bearing up well without my presence. We will make the one manana as Friday is the big day there...mark that the sunsets are now an hour earlier!

I urged for dinner where I had never been but heard countless kudos about the food, especially the shrimp wiri. Mariscos Polo, Francisco I. Madero 376 between Insurgentes and Aguacate in Hotel Lina OT/SS. 12pm-10pm, Closed Tuesday.

Some of the area's best seafood including ceviche on tostada 7p, burritos 53-73p, seafood fettuccine al chipotle Diablo 76p, enchiladas, fish filet 70-90p [special fish fantastic, octopus, seafood cazuela [casserole] 63/73p, creamy flan 15p. Marianne says "shrimp wiri 145p [fresh coconut on peach puree] is excellent but any seafood I have had there was good. They have a tostada with calamari 20p that is a great appetizer." Colorful café. Wiri is tops but the seafood fettuccine and the special fish were both fantastic...Hi to owner Polo, charming owner/host. A M U S T !

Friday, November 5

Up early, café'd, to the pool where the water remains cool from lower overnight temps but warms as the sun rays begin to hit it around 10am, too early now. Refreshing as they say! Cool to me, but great for little trotting around the neck-high water while you carry on the first several conversations of the new day...where did you eat, what did you have, was it any good, see any place to shop and buy absolute necessities for the home or amigos, any events planned for tonight I should be aware of? And that is just with total strangers, let alone later when longtime amigos of over two days duration appear! Spread the joy and spirit. But had to rush off to a coffee engagement concerning PV websites, so we met at Café San Angel, Olas Altas 449 at Francisca Rodríguez OT/SS. 223-1273

9am-1am.
Corner outdoor café for breakfast as chilaquiles or huevos rancheros, light lunch, dinner or desserts. Café latte, iced frappuccino, fresh smoothies, luscious pies and cakes 30-50p. Savory crêpes 50p. Sandwiches include smoked salmon and cream cheese on baguette 70p, prosciutto bruschetta baguette 70p.

We worked out some ideas and fully pictured a venture open to many areas of exploration and value to visitors and present and future residents. Puerto Vallarta has a multitude of areas virtually untouched by anyone, just awaiting that person with a vision, an idea, a means to fill a void, a way to enable people from all over the world to enjoy this magical spot on Earth even more. A little capital would not hurt either! Gosh it is noon already and the boys are hungry for sure. Back home, then out for a slow trek northward in the considerable heat, away from the brisas de bahia, we head past Our Lady of Guadalupe and up the stairs to Planeta Vegetariano
Iturbide 270 near Hidalgo, up sidewalk steps north of Our Lady of Guadalupe Church DT.222-3073 www.planetavegetariano.com hectoresponda@yahoo.com.mx Breakfast: 8am-11:30am, Lunch/Dinner: 11:30am-10pm.
Hidden secret since 1995 [10 tables] which is worth the trek up the small hill near the Guadalupe Church. All you can eat breakfast buffet for 45p, lunch/dinner buffet for 65p. From soup to dessert, including fresh beverages and many choices of fruit, side dishes, salads [cactus, mango], corn-black bean salad, entrees as soy enchiladas, eggplant, banana lasagna, falafel in tomato sauce, curry tempura, couscous, beets, tofu and cakes. Nothing but plants, plant products and some milk-based products used. Meal choices change daily and seasonally but plentiful. A special filling meal in a wonderfully colorful café. No C.C.

I felt the food was even better than last May and my amigos first visit was pleasurable, true even for those people who feel they would dislike such cuisine. That falafel was my fave by far, then the corn-black bean mixture. Such happy, pleasant and healthy people who operate this little tasty spot. Walked off some of the calories and ended our downtown excursion at the tourism office right across the street from the church, northwest corner. Great spot for one and all to stop in for brochures, cards and magazines on anything local, all for free and explained by extremely helpful English-fluent young people proud of their city and vast and varied culture. Both the Film and Music festivals are kicking in big-time, an Art festival and then later the annual Gourmet festival...and that is only November! Several reasons right there why I love to be here when the month begins each year. Wandered past many tiendas providing items colorful and low-priced. The south direction bridge [we used to call it the New Bridge, but that name is fading] takes us past the location of my very first visit here in 1979, Molino de Agua, and then Pie in the Sky for afternoon refreshments if needed...especially their assorted ice creams [also back north is Once Upon a Time.] No need today, rather tired and warm, we agree on a cool dip then lay in the umbrella shade for a while as the sun lowers in the nearly-winter sky. Aaah, another sunset of bright orange and a little red, though this has not been a trip marked by explosive memorable sunsets which color your mind for long stretches. Mas tardes...

Friday, November 5 cont'd

The sunset referred to above was viewed from another get-together at CyC on Playa Los Muertos with a bunch of Internet buddies. Although I had wished to go to Oktoberfest at Cafe Frankfurt with several of the gang, I left it up to mi amigo to choose as this was his birthday night dinner. He opted for The Red Cabbage where those two had never been. What I always inform newbies is that this fine spot offers dishes from their kitchen based on old Mexican family recipes not influenced by the Spanish. One does not see them on other local menus. Red Cabbage [El Repollo Rojo], Rivera del Río 204A OT/SS. 223-0411 redcabbage@pvnet.com.mx www.redcabbagecafe.com
5:30pm-11pm Closed Sunday in the summer and September.
Old Mexican family run location, [Hi to Lola and Cuco!] very small and intimate and very down-home. Features old recipe dishes and indigenous sauces which are not offered often elsewhere. Ask about the cookbook. Special unique Mexican Plate 145p, chiles en nogada or rellenos 80p, pork with garlic chile ancho sauce 85p, pork loin orange sauce 95p, shrimp Giovanni 175p, Puebla chicken mole 110p, cream of peanut soup 45p, tortilla soup 40p and Panela cheese with chile de tenir [ancho] sauce 50p. Artwork immortalizes Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera plus Hollywood stars. Not a place that will soon be forgotten. Placemats have clever information. Reservations recommended. Nonsmoking. No CC.

We enjoyed the fresh cool air by walking slowly down the hill toward Olas Altas, passing local markets, shops, fine eateries, a few quiet bars and even a new French/Mexican bakery called Charme. Needing to play some online catch-up, I went to my cafe and soon 2 hours had flown by somehow and I was back to the casa for a little news and then bed as a big day lay ahead...are any bigger than the one before or the one upcoming?

Tuesday, November 2

Up early and back to the one property roomie really wants for 97,000 pesos. It is very nice but I could not deal with the two choices of 120 steps descending from the upper street or 72 steps up from the lower street. Bid time is closing in and he says he has been tossing and turning for a couple nights. I broke off and did some browsing, walking and work, then ended at Brother-in-law Taqueria [El Cuñado] Francisca Rodríguez near Olas Altas OT/SS. 9am-11pm Sunday and Tuesday 9am-6pm

Son Jorge and brothers run this taco stand, part of a family enterprise. Taco de Maiz [corn] 6p, Taco de Harina [flour] 8p, Quesadillas cheese 8p, meat 12p. Adobado [pork] is wonderful. All can be topped with guacamole and salsa. Aguas frescas including Jamaica 5p. Limited sidewalk seating. Quick, clean and delicious meal, on the run. Returned to La Palapa and awaited two amigos from NJ. They got in a little late due to rain in Dallas but were thrilled to be back in Paradise and the same unit as 1.5 years ago which they felt was a super design, location, and ambiance, arranged through www.doinitright.com <;http://www.doinitright.com>...; . Lounged on the balcony after they freshened and unpacked, sipping cool drinks and chatting about what has been going down in all our lives. Then up to the pool with the 360 degree city/bay view and a long dip, sunning, meeting fellow travelers, especially my newlyweds new pals from San Francisco [we had visited their top floor wrap-around condo seven day wedding gift, fantastic] who have been dining at each top site in town and reporting to me every morning exactly what they had in minute detail, the prices [wow!] and the quality. Tops has gone to Cafe de Artistes followed by La Palapa, surprisingly. They were too hyper for even a short siesta after a long and delayed trip on two planes, but wished too dine early partially due to the lack/quality of airline food, so all of us headed to Rodolfo Gomez 127 near Olas Altas OT/SS. 223-4676 www.mexonline.com/cafebohemio.htm pvx2@prodigy.net.mx 5-12am Closed Sunday, some Holidays, and most of September. In an open square near Hotel San Marino, run by Chris May and Sol Rosenshein from Palm Springs, CA. Varied menu, all very reasonable and pleasant. Al fresco dining and you may have to wait for a table. It has become the area's hot spot. Mexican and American fare with a flair! Almost all entrees are at or below 100p. Daily specials, New York steak 99p, Coconut shrimp with mango sauce 105p, mussels 89p, grilled fish 95p, combo fajitas 85-95p, chicken saté or mole poblana 85p, meatloaf 75p and Cherry Cola bbq ribs 99p include cup of soup du jour. Decadence brownie ice cream Sundae, NY cheesecake or flaming flan 35p. Many martini and margarita concoctions 49-59p. No CC. Our hosts were most congenial and happy to be reopened after time off, as were the customer-packed tables. Home for more talking and turning in fairly early.

Wednesday, November 3

All up very refreshed, even I who so thoughtfully agreed to sleep on the sofa, I was off for an uphill hike to a small house which may be rented in the lower Amapas area. Quite nice, little view, but clean and two stories. Great for 2-4 people. She also has a small studio for six-month rental. Thought long and hard of dropping everything and returning to her studio for 6-12 months! All met up after various sojourns and walked to Restaurant Row [B.B.], deciding upon a fond fave, Café de Olla, Basilio Badillo 168 OT/SS. 223-1626

9am-11pm, Closed Tuesday and mid-Sept. to mid-Oct. Family run spot for years has seen their place expand, overhead fans added and prices rise. Features large inside trees and whimsical artwork. A great stopover for simple authentic Mexican fare as BBQ or Mexican combo platter 105p, octopus in garlic 90p, steaks 165p carne asada 88p, ribs 95p, chiles rellenos 63p, tacos or tostadas 60p, best combo enchiladas 68p, chicken 85p, twice-baked potatoes from the outside grill 15p, tasty tortilla soup 40p, guacamole 40p. Includes good chips, salsa fresca and nopales [cactus] salad. Loud and busy in high season, with long lines which move quickly and are sociable! No reservations or CC. Strolled up and down, all around, peeking into shops, making small purchases, planning for returns later, taking in the wonderful sights and sounds and smells. Five senses working on high level. Last day for one amigo and he makes his latest bid on the condo after nail-biting misery in the late afternoon. Now it is out of his hands. What will be will be. He can do any follow-ups by email and faxes from home. Spent a lot of time up at our refreshing pool, mixing with people from all walks of life, many newbies to this territory and other longtime aficionados of PV as I am. Some are young parents with a couple kids, others two catamaran yacht owners who traverse the Eastern Mediterranean after Bordeaux, Barcelona and Rome harbors. That couple will soon be off to Lebanon, Syria, Egypt and Israel, port to port, a long line of yachts and when moored the owners will attend dinners, tours and parties hosted by government heads in promotion of their tourism. Fascinating lifestyle unlike mine and even though I graciously volunteered, I was turned down! Imagine.

Wednesday, November 3…cont’d

By vote of 4 to 0, we headed to where one amigo had never ventured, a travesty, and his last night...Las Carmelitas, Rancho Camino a la Aguacatera Km 1.2 arriba del tunel grande, 303-2104, 293-3112, 222-0845 info@lascarmelitas.com www.lascarmelitas.com
1pm-11pm. High on the hills 1000+ feet overlooking the town, a place to go watch another lousy sunset in Paradise. 50p per person entrance fee is deducted from your bill [inspect] imposed to keep out visitors who only come for the view. Owner Petro is hands-on farmer. His fare is fairly ordinary but with that astounding view, who cares? Mesquite grilled meats as tasty arrachera 110p, shrimp 110p/210p, garlic fish 95p, chicken breast 75p include grilled green onions, cactus salad, salsa, guacamole and chips. Hi to waiter Antonio. Drive a van or take a taxi [~80p] and have the cabby come back at a prearranged time for pickup or they will call one for you. Treat him to a cerveza or café and tip well. They do not venture up the dirt roads in the rainy season. Take a camera and a lover or friends. He expanded the cliffside restaurant area. We found out the hard way that one is charged an additional 40p for having Petro call a taxi as the driver charges extra for the trip up and then the trip down...be aware, no big deal. A fitting finale for one person's trip through time in PV. It was a spectacular evening gazing at the tiny twinkling city and bahia below even though we missed the sunset due to misjudging the time of sunset after 'daylight savings' change. If you arrive during daylight, climb the rickety steps to his vista point for Kodak moment photos which you will record nowhere higher in the area! If it gets a wee chilly at this elevation, fear not, serapes arrive to warm the shoulders of the delicate souls. A local Huichol plies some folk art handmade by her people at remarkable prices. It is hard to resist a stone mask for 40p or an earthenware woman with pan or maiz for 50p. Soon we are whisked below and back to the bustling pulsing small city, rather a shock after such a blissful time in the clouds below the Sierra. Sigh...

Sunday, October 31

We rose well rested to hazy skies in the East, clearing to bold blue by 9:30am and time for a refreshing dip and soak in the rooftop pool with the lousy 360-degree view. Such a life, but, hey, somebody's gotta do it! Meet more visitors from San Francisco...is that town empty? The newlyweds were immersed in this part of town after leaving the northern reaches of Quinta Real, shopping, swimming, hiking, dining, having an all-around super time which will never be forgotten. Donning my Ray Ban sunglasses and casual garb in hopes of thwarting the paparazzi once this trip, we headed around town looking, stopping here and there, and watching any certain local activity new to our eyes. Some scary costumes and creepy masks are appearing already and those where the tourists who had too happy a night prior! Pickup trucks are laden with young kids screaming down the cobblestones. Church mass is over, the bells silenced and the newly found American fiesta begins. Once more over to newly refurbished and named Mama Dolores Diner, this time for a good lunch. What we like about this spot is that it has outdoor cafe seating above the street but is removed one block from the major bustle and noise of the area. [Olas Altas 534B near Pulpito OT/SS. 228-4061 mamadolores4@hotmail.com
8am-10pm Closed Monday.

Part inside, part elevated sidewalk street café since 1996 now owned by Grant Hunermund and Kieran Justason from Toronto, Canada features simple Mexican and American fare as 1/3 lb. burger with French fries 50p, BLT 45p, turkey club 53p, chef salad 55p, taco salad with choice of meat 53p, meat loaf 80p, fried chicken 75p, mac and cheese 75p, green salad with soup and bread 38p, ½ baby back pork ribs 80p, full 99p, fajitas 90p, mahi mahi 88p, whole fish 94p. Breakfast hot cakes or French toast 55p, eggs Benedict 58p, meat lover's omelet with chorizo, bacon and ham 60p, chicken fried steak with fried eggs 53p. Oct.-March: Sunday turkey dinner with all the trimmings 5pm-10pm 110p. Adult Soda Fountain Cocktails [Floats, Sodas, Shakes], Mama D´s Margarita Club - Buy 9, 10th is free. Saturday night meet Mama D. No CC.] We both were in thee mood for a breakfast item and since the am chef was still on duty, we were offered that menu also. Check out the steak and eggs or Benny with...note...Canadian bacon, what else?!

Sunday, October 31, cont'd...

A great afternoon to walk off the meal and breathe in the ambiance and spirit of OldTown. Waves splash in, boats sway in the sleepy surf, banana boats and parasail motorboats await eager customers. Children are everywhere. It seems so much of PV comes out for a family Sunday of togetherness. Hawkers wish to persuade you to part with pesos for homemade pies, muffins, jewelry, rugs, shirts, ornaments, temporary tattoos, green palm frond hats turning to brown in the sun, tours to Yelapa or Mismaloya, fishing adventures, assorted nuts, helados, churras, ceramics and fish on the stick. Close your eyes and drift off to wherever you wish, snap them open and there is the playa, the bahia, the locals and the peacefulness. After a log relaxing time in and around the rooftop pool, chatting with people from various parts of the globe.

Halloween in Vallarta….was not all that long ago that it was not celebrated here but Americanization has struck, esp. when it comes to ninos. Two of our Internet superstars appeared in outlandish regalia, toting overflowing bags of American candy. Now I know I must at least bring a bag for every Halloween from now on. As the sun set in the West and our CyC crowd got larger and livelier, the kids slowly appeared with a parent or two, many in the most endearing costumes of orange, black and scary gruesome masks. Some of our own partiers were pretty wild looking but after second look, I realized that is the way they always look. Oooooops…! Present company included. One proud papa was esp. touching as he carried his most beautiful daughter from person to person and she planted a kiss on each, even without a small candy gift. It was a blast and many of us wished it would go on and on.

A couple of us headed to Brasil, no not the country. This spot is an all-you-can-possibly-eat churrascaria with top quality meats accompanied by a slew of salads. Great for carnivores. Venustiano Carranza 210 OT/SS. 222-2909 www.brasilpirey.com pirey@prodigy.net.mx 2pm-12am. Churrascaria featuring all-you-can-eat meats [~12] served by skewer-wielding meseros dressed a la Brazil with soccer jerseys, though the meats are local including very tasty rib eye, sirloin, turkey and chorizo. Includes assorted salads, rice balls and fried bananas. Huge Mango tree grows right in the center! Come very hungry and ask them to go slowly [good luck!]. A/C for nonsmoking comfort plus smokers have their own open-air room. Men 150p, women 120p! Delicious but fulfills a beef desire for quite a number of days.

Monday, November 1

Pre-election jitters hit this sleepy town of Puerto Vallarta, not a local one but in the USA. CNN blasts from corner bars and cyber cafes, eyes glued to every word emitting from the boob tube. One of the top reasons I left for Mexico, to be free of the constant political barrage. Sharply at 11am, we were whisked off to several condo properties for my roommate to inspect as a possible purchase. First time buyer is not a great position but he asked many pertinent questions and took it all in. One place stuck in his mind, especially for the price although the 100+ steps were a large deterrent to me. We rested at the fine local ¡Chile's! for lunch of hamburger and other sandwiches with super limonada, back in the cool jungle patio. Pulpito 122 OT/SS. 223-0373. 11am-6pm, Closed Sunday and all summer. Since 1995, Hank Muffett and Conrad Kostelecky from Portland, OR. have found their pleasant niche one block up from Playa Los Muertos serving lunch and early dinner. Spit-BBQ chicken 59p [ready around 11:30am] over potato chunks is wonderful as are the plump hamburgers 53p [best in Vallarta?] and potato salad. Side orders small 12p, large 24p, French dip 57p, chicken or chef's salad 57p. Fresh iced tea, lemonade, sodas 12p, beer 18p. All food can be take-out, but whole chickens must be ordered before noon for 5pm pick-up. Jungle atmosphere in a courtyard of an old casa. Airy rear seating among plants. Lovely. Large local clientele. Warm, sunny and tempered by soft yet refreshing Bay breezes, we still needed time in the rather cool waters of our pool and conversed with an experienced property developer who must have made quite a fortune as now he and his wife split time here in their condo and the rest on a catamaran sailing the oceans and seas of the world. Unpretentious but filled with stories of remarkable travels, connecting with people of widely diverse backgrounds and cultures. Utterly fascinating to me. Needing a long session in front of a computer connecting myself with a myriad of people from so many places worldwide, I sailed in my chair through countless emails and responded to the ones linked to this sojourn in Paradise. Using this method, I did not subject myself to high winds and seas nor suffer from seasickness!

Off with Diana of Diana's Tours...she has been booking her Thursday Rainbow Cruise very well...it departs from Los Muertos Pier. I hear fabulous reports back. Check with her upon your arrival 222-1510, Lesbetravelling@hotmail.com

She also offers airport pickups and virgin tours, private tours and concierge special services. A wonderful person to support and she will answer your questions from a local standpoint! Checked out some local property to see if worthy of renting and took a bunch of pix. It was very productive and met several courteous owners. Some places had spectacular views, my fave being a rooftop pool which went right to the western edge so you felt like you were swimming into the horizon! I told the owners that is where I would spend the majority of my time. Roomie needed his taco/quesadilla/parilla fix at our new fave place Takos Panchos, not a stand but an indoor/outdoor with hot grill and cheap great food. Too hot tonight to eat there, we ordered a variety of items for take-out and arranged platters on the balcony with the view of the SouthSide and the Bahia, with soft crashing waves and city noise. Each morsel invoked an Aaaaahhhh. He went out and I stayed at my laptop to work on offline bits, cutting down on the pesos spent at cyber cafes.

Friday, October 29

After many days jaunting around PV environs, I met TJ and Angela of the orchid/bromeliad tour fame and off we sped north to Marina Vallarta. This is a wonderful spot to view the boats and maritime activity, especially from a sidewalk cafe. We stopped at Victor's Place [Cafe Tacuba], Condominio Las Palmas Local 9 Marina Vallarta. 221-2808, 8am-11pm. Victor Fregoso, brother of Rueben of Pipi's, operates an expanded cafe with a great marina boat view. Tortilla soup 45p, chicken enchiladas verde 75p, breaded chicken 70p, 3 spaghettis 85p, fish filet 75p, fish burger 65p. Outdoor patio seating and A/C inside during summer. Beer 10p all day. No CC. It is very casual and laid back. Dotted long the large curving stretch looking mainly west are a myriad of shops, some related to sailing. Ended up bussing back to South Side and over to the cafe to check if the boards were in need of attention and to see if folks were seeking my location and availability. I have neglected to add that before we headed south yesterday, I lugged my belongings over to La Palapa and would settle in for two weeks later in the day. Up to their gorgeous pool, sun, conversation [surprise!] and back down one flight. Another lousy sunset...actually this one was filled with purple streaks and orange reflecting glows. After 2 seconds of coercing took my roomie over to Takos Panchos and although quite hot inside and the two outdoor tables were occupied, we enjoyed immensely the pork tacos, chorizo quesadilla and a pork al pastor torta on a superb bun, as good as it gets! This small spot is a must on everyone's list, especially when the peso account is running low. With tip it came to 50p each and we were stuffed. This area of town is noticeably picking up, with small groups of tourists mingling with the locals, strolling along the popular streets and byways, looking at menus, shops and night clubs. Music blared everywhere and children shrieked as the older sibs chased the little ones. Pleasure personified coupled with an easy way of life [take note]. Many couples and friends are content to merely sit and sip a drink or coffee and take it all in, sporting that well-known contented glaze and slight smile. Many of us are fully aware of that feeling, right? Settled on the balcony as usual and read or took notes. Big plans lay ahead, so sleep is a necessity. I just hate to sleep long here as this life is speeding by and I wish to partake of it before being called away.

Saturday, October 30

Wandered around OldTown/SouthSide snapping pix representive of the unique feel of this area. I will burn a CD and post some of them online later. A short stop at the cafe and checking the necessities followed by an early afternoon meeting at Cine Bahia, hooking up with four folks to head north to Bucerias along the Bahia past Nuevo Vallarta to a preview of a new colorful cafe called Ixta.

[Lázaro Cárdenas 500, Bucerias, Nayarit. 298-2365

5pm-10pm Closed Monday.

New hideaway romantic Mexican patio setting serves creative dishes as Pescado Bandera [three sauces representing the flag] 85p,Tapado Tlaxcala, a stuffed beef filet with goat cheese, Gruyere and poblano 120p, Fernando chicken breast with mozzarella and ricotta on cream basil 120p, mole poblano 80p and fajitas 90p. Mexican folk music duet 'Los Frijoleros' vocals and guitar Friday high season 7:30-9:30pm.

Fernando proudly served a fine buffet for taste testing. It was a lovely day and once again I breathed in the artsy feel of this small but booming village. Quite a music scene is developing there. After plentiful horchata, chiles rellenos, pollo mole, ribs and Halloween tres leches cake, we drove around town, mainly along the area where small cafes and hotels line the beach.

Stopped at Cafe Magana, worth a return visit [Lázaro Cárdenas 40, Bucerias, Nayarit. 298-1091 www.cafemagana.com

5pm-11pm Closed Thursday.

Brit owner Jeff Rafferty serves up meaty well-spiced ribs 94p/154p and chicken 88p both with cole slaw, combos 134p, plus offers 8 sauces for sale, 48p for 50ml jar. Cheese burger and fries 64p, onion-garlic rings 24p, dorado and chips Friday and Saturday 80p. Brightly painted cafe offers take-out. Occasional live band, call first. No CC.]

and

Sandrina's [Lázaro Cárdenas 33, Bucerias, Nayarit. 298-0273 sandrinasmx@hotmail.com www.sandrinas.com
11:30am-10:30pm Closed Tuesday.
Owner, Sandra [Sandrina, in Spanish] has created a unique lovely garden getaway where you can enjoy her specialties. Food preparation has a Mediterranean/Greek accent, with wonderful creations as hearts of palm with Feta, garbanzo and chile mayo 80p, Sagonaki fried Greek cheese 65p, snapper filet and garlic shrimp with 2 pestos 175p, pizzas 75-90p, blue cheese mushroom burger on garlic toast 75p. You are treated to Sandrina's artistic endeavors, including original artwork on canvas and uniquely tiled walls and benches in a garden courtyard. Martini Monday, Sangria Saturday; Valiene says "Big and fat." Live music some evenings, call first. Call about morning Internet breakfast special plus jewelry by Stefan Wed. and Sun. nights in season.]

to chat with Sandy finding out how her beautiful place was evolving. Back into town and too late for the party up the hills...I missed one! Could not find the eatery where they went, so munched on snacks at the condo, taking off a night for simple relaxation, reading and watching beach activity, one of my fave pastimes.

garyrbeck

San Francisco, CA.

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Wednesday, October 27

Up to another delightfully beautiful morning of quietude, beachcombers strolling slowly along the water's edge, sleepy boats and pelicans starting to stir. Met a friend and we drove up a ways to Northern Delights San Salvador 171 HZ Colonia 5 de Diciembre between Peru and Avenida Mexico near Hotel Buenaventura. 222-4424 11am-8pm, closed Saturday, where owner/chef James Myers has established a fine restaurant/cafe serving such north of the border faves as French onion soup or macaroni and cheese 25p/45p, meatloaf dinner, with soup or salad, potato or mac and cheese, and veggie 70p, meatloaf sandwich 30p, burger or BLT 35p. Filet Mignon 105p [high season only]. Lasagna 70p. He says: homemade "killer brownies" are a popular item 15p, 25p with ice cream as is all you can drink brewed iced tea 15p. Home baked cinnamon raisin bread served. A/C. Fearless board member Angela served the meal left-handed and filled us in on many of the latest upcoming PV events. I headed south to the Internet cafe and caught up a little, then back to BTM. After only a short breather, It was way up the hills to Casa Isabel in Alta Vista where hostess extraordinaire Brenda hosted a large group of us for an afternoon fiesta. The panorama up there is spectacular as are the facilities. One can kick up the heels and zone out for a week. After her special salsa fresca, tricolor chips and cool drinks, I thought it would be time to head back down to the town, but out she comes with huge platters of food she had been preparing all day! Brochettes and salads from our fine lady chef and hostess. Yum! No one could agree on the exact time of the total lunar eclipse so we watched from our birds eye view as it slowly turned black, leaving a huge circle or orange. Very fun time with everyone comparing notes on their favorite meals so far and what places were still on the agenda and how high up the list. Just not enough time...another trip is being planned as the current one speeds along! Bunch of us headed slowly down the hills on and off the cobblestone to Basilio Badillo, really not that rough an experience. There we were right back in the pulsing heart of the area. One can feel day-by-day, night-by-night, that the town is awakening with new visitors with each passing hour. Before you know it, November will arrive with the new season changing from a chug-a-lug to a boom.

Thursday, October 28

Early am…up, readied myself for another day of super activity. Kat had set up a boat trip with Alfredo and a few people, though 4 were sadly no shows. We slowly meandered south hugging the coastline and as we passed each village, he told us the name and a little info about the spot. After the Southside of town, we passed lovely Conchas Chinas with casa after villa, all quite suitable for me to inhabit. Hint, hint. Then, the large village of Mismaloya and its famed hotel La Jolla and the remains of the sets of Night of the Iguana, a movie with Richard Burton and Ava Gardner which did much to put this once sleepy community on the map for tourism. The presence of lady friend Elizabeth Taylor sure did not hurt the international news and photogs, let alone the publicity for the movie! On we glided past Boca de Tomatlan, Colomitos, Las Animas [looks clean and peaceful, must stop another trip], Quimixto, Las Caletas, Majahuita and just south of Punta La Boca we turned in and Carefully alit in Yelapa. Headed straight to a long table shaded under palapas and ordered refrescos, cold and needed! Sighed deeply and watched the beach activity, boats coming in and out, even a Corona cervesa delivery boat. Wow, there arrived the Yelapa Pie Lady of world fame, assisted on shore with trays of warm fresh pies from her ovens. Slices were 20p and huge. I forced myself to sample for later...lemon [lime] meringue, pecan, banana and coconut, supporting the local economy, of course. Later we ordered simple lunch at Tino's Oasis, mine chicken enchiladas verde. No one felt like exerting the energy to hike up the hills to the waterfall, so we 'vegged' out, feet in sand, quietly chatting. Regretfully, we embarked and headed on the speedy return farther to sea, back to Los Muertos Pier. We agreed it was a wonderfully relaxing day and paid our fine captain and bid adios and gracias to Kat for arranging such a memorable trip south.

Monday October 25

Some mornings are so quiet when you arise, with only the slow crashing of the waves and a few hungry birds squawking or conversing. Maybe include the low humming of the necessary overhead fans. Now the light dripping of the filter French roast coffee from the Coffee Cup. A new day begins, my eyes are open. Later, after a few quick munches on one of Jose's pastries, I am down the stairs and out the door once again onto the cobblestones I love. Stopped at Bancomer and exchanged at 11.30 pesos per dollar. After a short stop at the cyber cafe, off to the stop over on Insurgentes for the Marina bus. Finally one arrived and off we rode past Neptuno and the whales sculptures, curving past large hotels and condo complexes until Velas Vallarta. What a super entrance, looking straight open air to the Bahia. "Walk all the way to the front pool, the very last one", the employee stated. Ran into two friends and remarked how nice the brisas were there along with the garden design with goldfish pools and bridges. They dropped the temperature by about 10 degrees! With the water and sand in view, there were the canopy-topped tables and white chairs filled with all the amigos, sipping and chatting. Such a stunning, clean, lush tropical paradise and not crowded. Later as we munched on plates of nachos, guac, salsa and fruit, the clouds got thick and billowy, the brisas turned to winds, the palm fronds went diagonal, the tables rocked...oh, this is the 2nd anniversary of Hurricane Kenna! We were treated to sandy grit and salt spray in our mouth and eyes. Not a drop of rain but wind and waves. This did not stop us from wading along the paths stretching from pool to pool. Refuge was finally sought in the hosts' suite overlooking the entire Bahia and the town of Puerto Vallarta to the left. Kodak moment! Gradually the friends dispersed and home again by bus, 4 pesos, first stopping at several restaurants to chat with owners, hosts or managers, checking hours, items and prices.

Time to relax by the pool, soaking feet, listening to the waves and conversations. Decided to check out a referral, a seafood stand at Parque Lazaro Cardenas. Found out the name is La Cabaña del Choncho, Pino Suárez at Lázaro Cárdenas OT/SS. 2pm-11pm, closed Sunday. Burras [huge burritos] smoked marlin 40p, octopus 40p, shrimp 50p or a combo of all three 60p with pasta or jicama salad. Shrimp burger 50p, hot dog 15p, refrescos 8p and daily agua fresca as Jamaica or horchata 5p. Ernesto has run this stand for over 10 years. Fantastic and very popular with gringos. The weather front changed our weather and walking around after dinner around 10pm was so pleasant compared to the mugginess of last night!

Tuesday, October 26

The weather is most pleasant with good brisas and temperature, billowy white clouds to the south. Quiet around the pool this am, but too early for most to be up and around. Over to the cafe for just a few emails to Puerto Vallarta folks and then to friend's casa for a meeting before lunch. Everyone ready, enjoying each other followed by a short walk down the street to la playa where most had breakfast at Langostinos. Very reasonably priced egg dishes. Everyone had their own mission and we split off in all directions. After meandering around town for a couple hours, I decided to enjoy a good sandwich at Dee's Coffee Shop since I had not eaten. Turkey and avocado on whole-wheat sesame bread with salad 50p was very tasty. Home to ready for Bill's arrival from SFO via LA at 4pm. Hmm, fell asleep briefly to the pounding surf and humming fan. He arrives wound up but exhausted from 3 hours sleep and two crowded planes with a changeover, but happy to be back where he loves.

Barcelona Tapas at the corner of Matamoros and 31 de Octubre DT.: Brenda took a party of 22 to share a dozen cold and hot tapas for 200p. Owner/chef Bill Carballo, from Chicago and trained in Spain, offers sizzling spicy shrimp, calamari, cured Spanish ham, chicken or beef brochettes, potato torta, creamy garlic potato salad, mushrooms with chorizo, layered vegetable torta, sopa de fríjol negro, house made breads and ice creams. Lovely terrace on fourth floor with wide Bahia and cityscape or inside A/C third floor dining room. Fried caramel bananas are super! Lots of conversation, sharing, watching the sunset, then down to Morelos for a taxi back south of the river. Boana Torre Malibu is certainly a convenient spot to stay, right at the edge of the activity of Old Town and just up from la playa. Denis and Suzanne are the most helpful hosts around. Kudos!!! Great place to stay, especially for singles who need a place to crash and wish to be right near the beach, night clubs, restaurants, shops, etc. Had a good cool soak in the pool, which has never looked better since some retiling and painting! Then up to our sixth floor balcony to breathe in the wide vista of the Bahia and shimmering waves. The autumn moon has been emitting nearly full rays in every direction, lighting the area like early morning time. Time to crash after another busy eventful enjoyable day in Paradise.

Saturday October 23

Slowed down a bit today due to the walking and climbing exacerbating my feet and legs. Munched on two slices of leftover pizza for lunch. Managed to get to Viva's to look for a lady and to several nearby restaurants for menu and price notes. Found an amigo and his partner home in their new three story casa, top two floors rentals, and sipped Jamaica, chatted for a couple hours enjoying their little iguana resident who dines with the yellow canary in the bird cage, nibbling on broccoli! Too funny. Made several plans for the following 2.5 weeks. See, I do one thing and plan for three. Aaaah, as I say, if I stop exploring and learning, I stop living. After sometime online, I changed my mind and bypassed CyC again so I could take it easy by the condo pool or the upstairs balcony with such a great view. Later I took a short walk over to El Moreno Tacos, a local area favorite stand. Wooden block pressed tortillas, very clean. Corn or flour tacos asada, machaca, adobada, tripe 6p, quesadillas 12p, birria asada 20 or 30p. Jamaica 5p. Enjoyed an assortment of four, which was fine for a light meal. Rested up for days ahead.

Sunday October 24

The light white haze burned off by 10am replaced by blue and warmth! The Bahia is shimmering yet peaceful while the beaches start to fill with local Mexican families, toting food and beverage-laden baskets, children shrieking in the surf, older boys playing games. Their big day off and it is used to share valuable time with each other. No cell phones, no palm pilots, no video games, and just good fun with family and friends. I could not get a shrimp salad out of my mind, so headed farther up la playa and sat at a table in the sand at Langostinos. The mixed salad, 65p, was excellent paired with a fresh mango smoothie 20p. Talked with Irma about Oktoberfest at the Frankfurt in two weeks. Great sense of accomplishment! So many people out talking, walking, laughing, splashing, having a great day at the beach for after all, it is Sunday. Jose my muffin man for over 10 years showed up to big greets and proudly showed his new product expansion to include various stuffed pastries and sandwiches. To support the local economy and his family back home, I purchased a ham, cheese and jalapeno sandwich and a coconut cream filled goody, 15p each, for la casa. Spent three big hours catching up on all the emails and postings. Already I had to buy another 10 hours for 150p summer special.

Big sunset get-together at CyC marked with the highest humidity of trip...lots of glowing ladies. Good group of Internet people and their partners who do not cyber much! Cooled a bit after the sun went down. Party broke off into groups but most headed nearby to Las Margaritas where I had not dined since days of yore when place was located on the malecon. 12 of us sampled the menu including a decent tortilla soup, impressive large Mexican plate 90p, chiles rellenos, combo tacos, whole huachinango Veracruzana and enchiladas. Marsha likes the arrachera. Inside is A/C, so off went the fans and the doors closed creating the coolness needed for all of us. After dinner drinks were provided gratis to those who desired one. Eyes were full of tiny blue lights from all the photos taken. Cannot get away from the darn paparazzi, but I have grown used to it. Back to condo for some serious feet soaking in the pool followed by reading.

garyrbeck

San Francisco, CA.

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Thursday October 21

Up at 6:30am, again at 7:30am to the alarm, make myself decent and sauntered over to Memo's Pancake House, starting point for today's orchid/bromeliad jungle tour. After finding out that Sher and her two amigas were unable to make the trip as planned due to three serious reasons, we ate pancakes or waffles, quaffed Memo's fine cafe and headed north with TJ as our fearless driver guide. Up, up, up we headed on a rutted dirt road as Angela remarked about her 200,000-mile journeys along such hidden Mexican byways, some departing San Blas. Around 5000 feet elevation, he pulled over and we headed into the jungle or wooded forest rocky land as I call it, by foot. Stopping every so often for a study of the local vegetation and crossing a creek about 20 times, we rested and turned around. No orchids blooming, but one large spike would be open in about 3 weeks. Many grouping on trees appeared to be at least 100-150 years old and TJ remarked when that certain species blooms, the clump would have 10-15 spikes each with 8-10 flowers...spectacular! We had a road mishap and found ourselves stuck in a deep rut with collapsing soft soil. Two young guys stopped and spent a long time propping and jacking to get the right rear tire out of its deep dilemma. Almost there, when a truck of road workers finished with the day drove up behind us and had to choice but to lift and shove freeing our stranded car. It took them all of 30 seconds and we were home free. Sigh. Trip down the road seemed to take 1/4 the time up and we were once again in town.

TJ took me to La Parota de Pancho Villa, renovated family seafood eatery Jim opened a little over a year ago, known for good quality and huge portions. We shared two beautiful fish and seafood platters of red snapper, shrimp, octopus, with rice and beans, salad, marlin taco, choco cake, and a kahlua if desired, all for 99p. Highly recommended.

Friday October 22

Met with two new amigos joined later by a local restaurateur for lunch and some discussion about Internet webpage plans. Finally got to Pastel du Village where French chef Eric Lenoir has opened a beautiful pastry shop with lunch items. We had quiche, ham and cheese croissant and chicken tarragon, all served with a tossed green salad and fresh fruit mixture. He is adding some favorite entrees to the menu next week. Noticed my legs and arms are full of scratches and thorn damage from the trek yesterday and my feet are swelling from the humidity. Off to farmacia...

I have been using my laptop in the hotel to write and organize, then transfer to a floppy disk, insert at the Internet cafe and copy and paste into emails. Saves online time and pesos, plus I can take my time editing, adding and correcting. Trying to remember everyone I promised to contact and arrange a get-together. Due to my legs and feet, I missed the CyC sunset fun and ended up later at Ocho Cascadas for their building Friday night party. Stayed and enjoyed a fine house-prepared Mexican dinner by cook Betty of mixed salad, guacamole and salsa fresca with chips, chile rellenos, refritos and rice, finished with a sautéed banana with caramel syrup. Just excellent, coupled with good conversation in a super lovely locale. Conchas Chinas certainly has changed [grown] over the past 26 years of my travels here! Back in town, hooked up online for several hours trying to catch up, then back to the hotel, relaxation and bed.

Wednesday October 20

Time to do some errands to get them over and done. Free up more time later! Talked with Denis here at BTM, got a phone calling card so I can maintain contact and headed through Old Town. Chatted with a couple employees at La Palapa and firmed up date and time for next week. That is such a fine, beautiful, clean and friendly place to stay, right in the center of activities. Cafe Centro is having staff problems so is not open except for their supper club. No lunch there today. Decided to check out La Ronda: Benjamín Torres' local favorite secret since 1994 serving very reasonably priced Mexican family recipes as pollo mole rojo 68p, chiles rellenos 52p, snapper in garlic 72p, ceviche 48p and Mexican plate 98p, chicken marsala 72p and carne asada 78p. Eclectic whimsical décor and attentive service by Sebastián. Needed to connect at Mama Dolores Diner where the new paint and remodeling have brought more life into this wonderful popular place. Talked with Tim of Toronto and made plans to return for Sunday turkey dinner. They have got a great venture going here! Mentally made plans to bring a couple groups of friends by later in the trip.

Needed a refreshing dip in BTM's remodeled pool and the moderate water soothed my muscle aches. Quiet here for the most part, but wait until the calendar page flips to November! dressed in my best tropical wares and met up with nearly 20 'allvallarta' people at CyC for sunset drinks. Jovial group and just super connecting a face and person to a user handle and name from the Internet. Oh, so you're...!!! This group has more plans for the next 21 days than one person could possibly do, so it is pick and choose. All of us ventured over to one of my local faves, La Piazzetta, where a long table had been assembled and we ordered whatever pizza or pasta we desired. Three mariachis met up with us from the beach and later Jorge serenaded us, followed by his partner Lenny so they dueted. Several of us purchased one of their several fine CDs. Highlight was 20 gringos singing along with them to Hotel California! Group gradually broke up and I had to get back online for a while then back to BTM and worked offline.

October 19, 2004

Busy busy busy...Flew out of a cold and rainy San Francisco to Paradise on a 100% full Alaska Airline jet. bit bumpy but uneventful and landed at 3pm PV time to a welcome from Diana, great way to enter Mexico and be driven to your casa and stop wherever else you desire, as to pick up pesos. Checked into Boana Torre Malibu with dear ofice lady Suzanne and headed up the elevator with Hermes lugging my bags and a jug of water. Yes, it is hot and humid, clear and sunny. Lovely. My unit has two good fans, which run all the time, plus a sliding door onto the balcony allowing brisas from the Bahia de Banderas and a super unblocked view north and south. Almost all the units here are one bedroom with two baths each with a shower, hall sink area, kitchenette, table for four, two couches, one of which pulls out into a double bed, balcony facing west with table for two to three. Cable TV, CD player, microwave oven, more amenities. Good rates, too! Unpacked all my lightweight clothes and settled in briefly before hitting the sidewalks, looking at what had changed in the past 5 months and planning on a dinner of enchiladas at Cafe de Olla where they make some of the very best...but they are closed on Tuesday. Roamed up and down Restaurant Row, ending back at a small indoor spot, which I had never entered. Takos Panchos is a delightful simple 7-table eatery with a chalkboard of various very good quick and tasty light foods, to go also. Tacos el pastor [shaved pork] 5p, quesadilla chorizo 15p, combination tacos 4 for 30-45p, queso fundido 25p, parillas 12-20p, fajitas 55p, horchata or Jamaica 5p, National beer 12p.

It has been 6 hours since landing so time for a stop at my Internet Cafe! Troubles with AOL, so worked only on Yahoo. Stopped at a number of places and wrote notes from menu with prices for my guide. Home, tired, and ready for sleep after some reading and planning.

garyrbeck