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| Puerto Vallarta Hot Summer Days [and nights] August |
| 02.20.06 (7:10 pm) [edit] |
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Monday, August 1, 2005
Hola kids~
Never say Never, as here I am in the midst of the very hottest season and I swore to avoid it at all cost! I made it...met by 5 folks at the aeropuerto and off we sped to KFC no less!!! I passed and had some mediocre tacos and on to Leslie's. Headed to her casita on Miramar and unpacked while the rest started my welcome party. I joined in shortly and danced with Rasta, her standard black haired poodle with a natural dreadlocks hairdo! Wild and crazy.
Why am I here in August, the heat, the humidity, after just being here for 17 days in May? My Puerto Vallarta Restaurant Guide Beck's Best, www.cafepress.com/vallartaguide has taken off but the online availability needs to be supplemented with local stores carrying it to avail it to visitors and local residents alike. Off to pounding the hot pavements and cobblestones. Plus I had an appointment to tape a radio show for Paco Ojeda's The VU, Vallarta Undiscovered, which is available on the Internet and locally. There were also engagements with a couple editors of English language papers and magazines coupled with food tastings in our casita and on the town. New places, closed spots, new owners, vacation breaks. The restaurant world is ever-changing and to be on top you must keep your eyes and ears open. The Internet provides me with information from amigos but being in town and seeing for myself is a bit superior. It amazes me how some locals who claim to have their ear to the foot traffic go to the same places over and over again and really know a lot less about what is happening in PV than I do. I also become aware of musical events, festivals, art exhibits, new shops, charities, eco-tours, boat cruises, fiestas, film and openings. I take my position seriously and realize it is a labor of love, not one to make me rich! Hardly, but sure fun, and the fine people I am able to meet and enjoy is marvelous. A real door opener.
Also, I have decided after years of pondering the situation that with my guide and the work it entails, rent has become a detriment and a total waste. So, I put out feelers for a small condo, even a studio, where I could hang my swimsuit, hook up my PC, have a phone and some coffee and food and sleep before the next day's travels. With a small bank account and a list of needs and factors unacceptable, the location of SouthSide, south of Rio Cuale but below the highway and not on the way to Conchas Chinas, my options were limited. My main realtor had his work cut out for him but he had already alerted me to a few possibilities even before my plane's wheels had touched the tarmac.
August 2 After a fitful night due to unaccustomed noise and concerns about the upcoming days, I arose, made cafe for us and started my first day looking over emails and phone numbers trying to decide which came first, second and then third. my amiga had an extra PC for me so I became glued to it as usual back in the City, plus three phone lines for her biz which I could use when open. I was being treated very well already. After sending out a dozen emails and reading even more, I stepped out the doorway into the bright hot sunlight and off I went to fill an aching in my tummy as I had not eaten in ages except for those little lousy tacos. Note-taking started immediately as I passed this spot no longer in biz, this one closed for a month, this one with shorter summer hours and this needing to be added to my guide. I finally decided upon a place I had been to many times before but not for well over a year:
El Calamar Adventurero
Aquiles Serdán 130 at Constitución across from G. Rizo’s Supermercado OT/SS.
11am-7pm Closed Sunday.
Corner eatery offers many fish and shellfish choices at low prices combining an L-shaped counter and section of tables to the right. Fresh oysters shucked per order, ceviche or shrimp tostada 10p, smoked marlin or pescado taco 10p, marlin burrito 65p, mussels 70p...fried shrimp tacos, special large seafood soup 100p.
We walked around, hunger pains getting greater and did not find the spot where we would be happy dining, when we walked by this relic which serves up some super good reasonable food with the same chefs who labored way back in the '70s days! Ah, chicken livers, tetrazzini or frogs' legs?
Tony's Please
Lázaro Cárdenas 446 near Jacarandas OT/SS.
5:30-11pm; high season 4:30-11pm Closed Sunday.
Tony's son serves up well-priced eclectic menu of Andalusa [garbanzo] soup 30p, garlic egg soup 26p, frogs' legs 98p, Mexican tenderloin tips 72p, Méxican plate 72p, chicken crêpes 70p, chicken livers...fish fillet in white wine shrimp cream sauce 90p or Veracruzana 88p. Father owned the 1960's-80's original on Encino near Río Cuale, which was a huge local favorite complete with pool table, rowdy customers and long lines. Menu here remains almost identical with same cooks.
What a nice early daytime to walk on la playa before the sun gets way too hot. But, the brisas off the Bahia are o comforting it is hard to leave. So, I decided to stop at one of the many small pots right by the sand which serve local fish and Mexican favorites at good prices.
Langostinos Playa Los Muertos at Manuel M. Diéguez OT/SS. 222-0894 I met Humberto and we shared some fun times this past visit. He is so very talented....and funny! Check out his mylars. I am very impressed with his artistry.
Grabbed a quick iced frappuccino and a sandwich at Dee's Coffee Company until my realtor whizzed by with word...
Machis Bar B. Q.
Lázaro Cárdenas 452, upstairs at Jacarandas OT/SS.
222-9327 machispv@yahoo.com
11-2am, 4pm-2am Sun.
Enrique and Adriana Solis Robles offer an inexpensive eclectic menu of avocado shrimp 50p, tortilla soup 25p, fish and chips 55p, mahi mahi Veracruzana 60p, bbq ribs 90p, pork chop 75p, rib eye 65/120p, filet mignon 95p, bacon wrapped mahi mahi stuffed with crab and shrimp 80p, bacon wrapped shrimp 95p, shrimp mignon scampi or mushroom 95p, chicken chipotle 60p, arrachera with guacamole... Good limonada and fried ice cream with choco 28p. Breakfast choices in November 2005 will include egg dishes 28p, omelets 38p and tamales 26p. Indoor and some balcony seating. Live music some nights, call first. Evening reservations recommended.
Had to rush back to the casita and get a taxi off to Fiesta Mexicana. I had not been to one of these 'touristy' attractions in 20 years. La Iguana was my first and last, but we felt the food was mediocre and the endless pitchers of margaritas very poor cheap quality but the dancers and singing owner were fabulous. What impressed me most was the parade of dancers in song after song attired in that state's indigenous costumes. This extravaganza was hosted at NH Krystal Vallarta on Francisco M. Ascencio toward the aeropuerto. The brochure said they have had 40 years on stage. The place was packed and fortunately we were able to just walk up to the front and announce our arrival without tickets. Ushered in past many empty tables we were seated at a fine table with a good vantage point and not right on top of the buffet tables.
Hombres wove through the masses blowing balloons into head gear of various whimsical designs and colors. We kept them on until the adventure of the experience has passed, about 15 minutes! An open bar was available through order from wandering meseros. The M. C. entertained some in the crowd and then came the announcement that the buffet were ready for perusing. I allowed the crowds to amass in long lines while I snapped pictures of the displays and patrons. Finally I started filling up a plate [or 2] and was able to pick and choose the regional item I desired in particular. The selection was vast, from cheeses, fruits, fish, chicken, pork, tostaditas, salads, dips and at long last desserts. One could not leave the huge ballroom hungry.
They needed a better lighting director since many of the fabulous costumes were practically impossible to see due to almost complete darkness with a few torches supplying light. When the lights popped on, we could see the fine workmanship. The dancing was very fine and the tempo of the presentation kept us enthralled. One highlight was the entrance of a horse onstage complete with two generations of rope cowboys. the young muchacho was hoisted upon the saddle and he made his fanciful lariat creations.
Dianita's Francisco I. Madero 243A OT/SS.
8am-6pm
Lunch special comida corrida [fast food!] 40p changes daily, choice of 10 entrées, 3 soups, warm tortillas and fresh agua of the day. Often offered: lomo chipotle [pork loin], pollo almendrado, bistek Méxicana [thin steak], chuletas de puerco [pork chops], machaca con huevos [shredded beef and eggs] and pollo spaghetti. Horchata [almond-rice cooler], limonada or Jamaica [hibiscus flowers] drinks. Small, simple, may share table with others, mainly locals. A quick, satisfying in and out spot!
Casa del Naranjo
Naranjo 263 at Lázaro Cárdenas OT/SS.
222-3518 casanaranjo@prodigy.net.mx 3-11pm
Owner Andres Espinoza's upscale casual with open kitchen restaurant has an ever-changing menu with an accent on the flavor of oranges. It may include shrimp salad with spinach and orange 70p, potato leek cream soup Reyna 40p, huachinango in orange pine nut crust with basil sauce 135p, giant butterflied shrimp with spinach...chocolate almond puff pastry with strawberry sauce or orange mousse 45p. A/C.
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