Tuesday, November 2

Up early and back to the one property roomie really wants for 97,000 pesos. It is very nice but I could not deal with the two choices of 120 steps descending from the upper street or 72 steps up from the lower street. Bid time is closing in and he says he has been tossing and turning for a couple nights. I broke off and did some browsing, walking and work, then ended at Brother-in-law Taqueria [El Cuñado] Francisca Rodríguez near Olas Altas OT/SS. 9am-11pm Sunday and Tuesday 9am-6pm

Son Jorge and brothers run this taco stand, part of a family enterprise. Taco de Maiz [corn] 6p, Taco de Harina [flour] 8p, Quesadillas cheese 8p, meat 12p. Adobado [pork] is wonderful. All can be topped with guacamole and salsa. Aguas frescas including Jamaica 5p. Limited sidewalk seating. Quick, clean and delicious meal, on the run. Returned to La Palapa and awaited two amigos from NJ. They got in a little late due to rain in Dallas but were thrilled to be back in Paradise and the same unit as 1.5 years ago which they felt was a super design, location, and ambiance, arranged through www.doinitright.com <;http://www.doinitright.com>...; . Lounged on the balcony after they freshened and unpacked, sipping cool drinks and chatting about what has been going down in all our lives. Then up to the pool with the 360 degree city/bay view and a long dip, sunning, meeting fellow travelers, especially my newlyweds new pals from San Francisco [we had visited their top floor wrap-around condo seven day wedding gift, fantastic] who have been dining at each top site in town and reporting to me every morning exactly what they had in minute detail, the prices [wow!] and the quality. Tops has gone to Cafe de Artistes followed by La Palapa, surprisingly. They were too hyper for even a short siesta after a long and delayed trip on two planes, but wished too dine early partially due to the lack/quality of airline food, so all of us headed to Rodolfo Gomez 127 near Olas Altas OT/SS. 223-4676 www.mexonline.com/cafebohemio.htm pvx2@prodigy.net.mx 5-12am Closed Sunday, some Holidays, and most of September. In an open square near Hotel San Marino, run by Chris May and Sol Rosenshein from Palm Springs, CA. Varied menu, all very reasonable and pleasant. Al fresco dining and you may have to wait for a table. It has become the area's hot spot. Mexican and American fare with a flair! Almost all entrees are at or below 100p. Daily specials, New York steak 99p, Coconut shrimp with mango sauce 105p, mussels 89p, grilled fish 95p, combo fajitas 85-95p, chicken saté or mole poblana 85p, meatloaf 75p and Cherry Cola bbq ribs 99p include cup of soup du jour. Decadence brownie ice cream Sundae, NY cheesecake or flaming flan 35p. Many martini and margarita concoctions 49-59p. No CC. Our hosts were most congenial and happy to be reopened after time off, as were the customer-packed tables. Home for more talking and turning in fairly early.

Wednesday, November 3

All up very refreshed, even I who so thoughtfully agreed to sleep on the sofa, I was off for an uphill hike to a small house which may be rented in the lower Amapas area. Quite nice, little view, but clean and two stories. Great for 2-4 people. She also has a small studio for six-month rental. Thought long and hard of dropping everything and returning to her studio for 6-12 months! All met up after various sojourns and walked to Restaurant Row [B.B.], deciding upon a fond fave, Café de Olla, Basilio Badillo 168 OT/SS. 223-1626

9am-11pm, Closed Tuesday and mid-Sept. to mid-Oct. Family run spot for years has seen their place expand, overhead fans added and prices rise. Features large inside trees and whimsical artwork. A great stopover for simple authentic Mexican fare as BBQ or Mexican combo platter 105p, octopus in garlic 90p, steaks 165p carne asada 88p, ribs 95p, chiles rellenos 63p, tacos or tostadas 60p, best combo enchiladas 68p, chicken 85p, twice-baked potatoes from the outside grill 15p, tasty tortilla soup 40p, guacamole 40p. Includes good chips, salsa fresca and nopales [cactus] salad. Loud and busy in high season, with long lines which move quickly and are sociable! No reservations or CC. Strolled up and down, all around, peeking into shops, making small purchases, planning for returns later, taking in the wonderful sights and sounds and smells. Five senses working on high level. Last day for one amigo and he makes his latest bid on the condo after nail-biting misery in the late afternoon. Now it is out of his hands. What will be will be. He can do any follow-ups by email and faxes from home. Spent a lot of time up at our refreshing pool, mixing with people from all walks of life, many newbies to this territory and other longtime aficionados of PV as I am. Some are young parents with a couple kids, others two catamaran yacht owners who traverse the Eastern Mediterranean after Bordeaux, Barcelona and Rome harbors. That couple will soon be off to Lebanon, Syria, Egypt and Israel, port to port, a long line of yachts and when moored the owners will attend dinners, tours and parties hosted by government heads in promotion of their tourism. Fascinating lifestyle unlike mine and even though I graciously volunteered, I was turned down! Imagine.

Wednesday, November 3…cont’d

By vote of 4 to 0, we headed to where one amigo had never ventured, a travesty, and his last night...Las Carmelitas, Rancho Camino a la Aguacatera Km 1.2 arriba del tunel grande, 303-2104, 293-3112, 222-0845 info@lascarmelitas.com www.lascarmelitas.com
1pm-11pm. High on the hills 1000+ feet overlooking the town, a place to go watch another lousy sunset in Paradise. 50p per person entrance fee is deducted from your bill [inspect] imposed to keep out visitors who only come for the view. Owner Petro is hands-on farmer. His fare is fairly ordinary but with that astounding view, who cares? Mesquite grilled meats as tasty arrachera 110p, shrimp 110p/210p, garlic fish 95p, chicken breast 75p include grilled green onions, cactus salad, salsa, guacamole and chips. Hi to waiter Antonio. Drive a van or take a taxi [~80p] and have the cabby come back at a prearranged time for pickup or they will call one for you. Treat him to a cerveza or café and tip well. They do not venture up the dirt roads in the rainy season. Take a camera and a lover or friends. He expanded the cliffside restaurant area. We found out the hard way that one is charged an additional 40p for having Petro call a taxi as the driver charges extra for the trip up and then the trip down...be aware, no big deal. A fitting finale for one person's trip through time in PV. It was a spectacular evening gazing at the tiny twinkling city and bahia below even though we missed the sunset due to misjudging the time of sunset after 'daylight savings' change. If you arrive during daylight, climb the rickety steps to his vista point for Kodak moment photos which you will record nowhere higher in the area! If it gets a wee chilly at this elevation, fear not, serapes arrive to warm the shoulders of the delicate souls. A local Huichol plies some folk art handmade by her people at remarkable prices. It is hard to resist a stone mask for 40p or an earthenware woman with pan or maiz for 50p. Soon we are whisked below and back to the bustling pulsing small city, rather a shock after such a blissful time in the clouds below the Sierra. Sigh...