Thursday, November 4

We had to arise early, coffee, shower and out the door for an appt. at 9am for one last visit and bid for the property in Amapas. Place is looking better and better, more questions answered. I hope he wins the battle since even though he says he will be untouched, I imagine he will be quite disappointed. Several days may provide a solution, but this mission could drag on and on as prospective buyers know quite well. All of us head out to Beach Café [The Green Chairs], Amapas 177 on Playa Los Muertos OT/SS. 222-1371 thebeachcafe@hotmail.com askus@thebeachcafe.com www.thebeachcafe.com 8am-9pm
Beach food served in plastic, but what a super people-watching spot! Sushi quite good when available, as Philadelphia Maki 60p, ceviche, fish 55p or shrimp 85p, pollo nachos 50p, quesadillas 45-75p, Tex-Mex Beach Bowls full/half chicken 45/80p, steak 100/55p, shrimp 120/65p, stir-fries full 90-130p, half 50-70p, burritos 40-60p [smoked marlin 50p!], enchiladas 75-95p. Live music 4-8pm some nights, call first. Was told after annual Latin Fever, the concerts should start in full after December 1st. Off he flew leaving us in the sand and near the waves, sipping a limonada or te helado [iced tea]. Oh well, somebody's got to do it...

Weather, though quite sunny with clear blue skies and some humidity has beeen moderated by the steady dependable brisas drifting in off the bahia. A couple blocks up from the beach and you quickly find the tempertures higher and feel no breeze to cool your skin. Shopping and long walking are best done before 10am and after 2pm, the hours of the long-gone Mexican siesta. Work is conducted continually now to increase the income from the tourists when they are in town, namely in the season called high, partially making up for the poor business in value season. Have not been down to the sunset gatherings of Internet people for several days and suppose they are bearing up well without my presence. We will make the one manana as Friday is the big day there...mark that the sunsets are now an hour earlier!

I urged for dinner where I had never been but heard countless kudos about the food, especially the shrimp wiri. Mariscos Polo, Francisco I. Madero 376 between Insurgentes and Aguacate in Hotel Lina OT/SS. 12pm-10pm, Closed Tuesday.

Some of the area's best seafood including ceviche on tostada 7p, burritos 53-73p, seafood fettuccine al chipotle Diablo 76p, enchiladas, fish filet 70-90p [special fish fantastic, octopus, seafood cazuela [casserole] 63/73p, creamy flan 15p. Marianne says "shrimp wiri 145p [fresh coconut on peach puree] is excellent but any seafood I have had there was good. They have a tostada with calamari 20p that is a great appetizer." Colorful café. Wiri is tops but the seafood fettuccine and the special fish were both fantastic...Hi to owner Polo, charming owner/host. A M U S T !

Friday, November 5

Up early, café'd, to the pool where the water remains cool from lower overnight temps but warms as the sun rays begin to hit it around 10am, too early now. Refreshing as they say! Cool to me, but great for little trotting around the neck-high water while you carry on the first several conversations of the new day...where did you eat, what did you have, was it any good, see any place to shop and buy absolute necessities for the home or amigos, any events planned for tonight I should be aware of? And that is just with total strangers, let alone later when longtime amigos of over two days duration appear! Spread the joy and spirit. But had to rush off to a coffee engagement concerning PV websites, so we met at Café San Angel, Olas Altas 449 at Francisca Rodríguez OT/SS. 223-1273

9am-1am.
Corner outdoor café for breakfast as chilaquiles or huevos rancheros, light lunch, dinner or desserts. Café latte, iced frappuccino, fresh smoothies, luscious pies and cakes 30-50p. Savory crêpes 50p. Sandwiches include smoked salmon and cream cheese on baguette 70p, prosciutto bruschetta baguette 70p.

We worked out some ideas and fully pictured a venture open to many areas of exploration and value to visitors and present and future residents. Puerto Vallarta has a multitude of areas virtually untouched by anyone, just awaiting that person with a vision, an idea, a means to fill a void, a way to enable people from all over the world to enjoy this magical spot on Earth even more. A little capital would not hurt either! Gosh it is noon already and the boys are hungry for sure. Back home, then out for a slow trek northward in the considerable heat, away from the brisas de bahia, we head past Our Lady of Guadalupe and up the stairs to Planeta Vegetariano
Iturbide 270 near Hidalgo, up sidewalk steps north of Our Lady of Guadalupe Church DT.222-3073 www.planetavegetariano.com hectoresponda@yahoo.com.mx Breakfast: 8am-11:30am, Lunch/Dinner: 11:30am-10pm.
Hidden secret since 1995 [10 tables] which is worth the trek up the small hill near the Guadalupe Church. All you can eat breakfast buffet for 45p, lunch/dinner buffet for 65p. From soup to dessert, including fresh beverages and many choices of fruit, side dishes, salads [cactus, mango], corn-black bean salad, entrees as soy enchiladas, eggplant, banana lasagna, falafel in tomato sauce, curry tempura, couscous, beets, tofu and cakes. Nothing but plants, plant products and some milk-based products used. Meal choices change daily and seasonally but plentiful. A special filling meal in a wonderfully colorful café. No C.C.

I felt the food was even better than last May and my amigos first visit was pleasurable, true even for those people who feel they would dislike such cuisine. That falafel was my fave by far, then the corn-black bean mixture. Such happy, pleasant and healthy people who operate this little tasty spot. Walked off some of the calories and ended our downtown excursion at the tourism office right across the street from the church, northwest corner. Great spot for one and all to stop in for brochures, cards and magazines on anything local, all for free and explained by extremely helpful English-fluent young people proud of their city and vast and varied culture. Both the Film and Music festivals are kicking in big-time, an Art festival and then later the annual Gourmet festival...and that is only November! Several reasons right there why I love to be here when the month begins each year. Wandered past many tiendas providing items colorful and low-priced. The south direction bridge [we used to call it the New Bridge, but that name is fading] takes us past the location of my very first visit here in 1979, Molino de Agua, and then Pie in the Sky for afternoon refreshments if needed...especially their assorted ice creams [also back north is Once Upon a Time.] No need today, rather tired and warm, we agree on a cool dip then lay in the umbrella shade for a while as the sun lowers in the nearly-winter sky. Aaah, another sunset of bright orange and a little red, though this has not been a trip marked by explosive memorable sunsets which color your mind for long stretches. Mas tardes...

Friday, November 5 cont'd

The sunset referred to above was viewed from another get-together at CyC on Playa Los Muertos with a bunch of Internet buddies. Although I had wished to go to Oktoberfest at Cafe Frankfurt with several of the gang, I left it up to mi amigo to choose as this was his birthday night dinner. He opted for The Red Cabbage where those two had never been. What I always inform newbies is that this fine spot offers dishes from their kitchen based on old Mexican family recipes not influenced by the Spanish. One does not see them on other local menus. Red Cabbage [El Repollo Rojo], Rivera del Río 204A OT/SS. 223-0411 redcabbage@pvnet.com.mx www.redcabbagecafe.com
5:30pm-11pm Closed Sunday in the summer and September.
Old Mexican family run location, [Hi to Lola and Cuco!] very small and intimate and very down-home. Features old recipe dishes and indigenous sauces which are not offered often elsewhere. Ask about the cookbook. Special unique Mexican Plate 145p, chiles en nogada or rellenos 80p, pork with garlic chile ancho sauce 85p, pork loin orange sauce 95p, shrimp Giovanni 175p, Puebla chicken mole 110p, cream of peanut soup 45p, tortilla soup 40p and Panela cheese with chile de tenir [ancho] sauce 50p. Artwork immortalizes Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera plus Hollywood stars. Not a place that will soon be forgotten. Placemats have clever information. Reservations recommended. Nonsmoking. No CC.

We enjoyed the fresh cool air by walking slowly down the hill toward Olas Altas, passing local markets, shops, fine eateries, a few quiet bars and even a new French/Mexican bakery called Charme. Needing to play some online catch-up, I went to my cafe and soon 2 hours had flown by somehow and I was back to the casa for a little news and then bed as a big day lay ahead...are any bigger than the one before or the one upcoming?