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Saturday, November 6
Yes, this is a big day, one I have looked forward to for over 2 years. I have been north to Punta de Mita, as far back as 1981, then more recently Huancaxtle and Bucerias three times [I adore this little village, and what a profusion of colorful restaurants there, music hot spot, rental and real estate prices skyrocketing], but longer to venture farther up the state of Nayarit to Sayulita, a surfing center with good beaches, waves and some beachfront cafes. First, I had an appt. with a new amigo for conversation so we agreed upon a meeting at Dee's Coffee Company, Rodrigo Gomez 120 near Amapas OT/SS. 222-1197 deerindt@hotmail.com 7am-10pm.
Deanne Rindt's small popular cafe serving warm breakfast bagel of ham, cheese, tomato, egg, nicely toasted [Paco says excellent] 35p, turkey, ham, chicken salad or health sandwich 50p, roast beef 55p. Fresh smoothies 25p, caramel latte 27p, 16 oz. latte 25p, frappes 28-35p. Try her iced Chai tea frappuccino. Wonderful Espresso Dark Roast coffee 120p/kg. Soups coming soon. I then hike quickly to another condo I have stayed in, straight out of Architectural Digest and in someone else’s budget plans and met mi amiga for a venture north after a few local errands. On we head, past Nuevo Vallarta and right near Bucerias veer right on the highway not going on to Punta. Land becomes much less populated with large stretches of jungle and scrubland, less billboards and condos! Slowly we creep into Sayulita and on dirt roads narrow enough for one car but used for two-way traffic, we edge toward the Pacific Ocean. Reaching a parking spot one block from the ocean waves, we settle in and grab what we need. I head to a library/bookstore then to a cyber café which I am amazed was installed with high speed DSL last week and in 2 months will have wireless abilities, all at prices quite a bit higher than back in PV. We agree to meet later and I start my sandaling up and down the beach reading menus, jotting info and deciding where I wish to have my one meal here. Funny I choose the fave spot of my friend and we sit down later for a most enjoyable lunch right on the beach, covered by a combination of palapas and umbrellas. The choices are all seafood, fine by me.
Saturday, November 6 cont’d
Where we dined was El Costeño, Delfin at la playa, Sayulita, Nayarit. Closed Thursday
Funky, feet in the sand, but longtime spot slowly serves very fresh and flavorful seafood as mahi filet 5 styles 80p, whole huachinango 4 styles 80p, shrimp 5 styles 90p, marlin and fish tacos 3 for 50p, shrimp salad 90p, Ruperto's shrimp pasta 90p, guacamole 40p and salsa and chips. Highlight was a drop-by of a transplanted Argentinean couple who were widely grinning musicians with their own compositions and thrilled the onlookers with beautiful bouncy tunes before offering their CD for sale. They exuded a feel-good feeling, a high without any assistance, a love of life and family and my friend related how she had been present during the final hour of this young lady's home birth, the air filled with the father's light guitar strumming and low humming of Spanish love songs as the baby began his life outside the womb. A beautiful way to enter this world, softly and with great outpouring love. One of a kind, I do feel. Sadly realizing this day was slipping away, we had to forego the trip farther up the coast to San Pancho [for the next trip north] and I headed eventually by bus to the Sheraton where we had to get out and transfer to a city bus to Olas Altas. I broke into deep shivers stepping into the cool breezes of the bay at night and raced home to bundle in a blanket. I stayed in bed trying to warm and drifted in and out of sleep for 17 hours, realizing I had developed a fever which finally broke into a pool of moisture soaking the bed. I maneuvered around to dry spots and every so often awoke and moved again, reaching for a dry pillow and sheet. Such a mystery, for I felt fine, it was not the food or flu. I stayed in and bid adios to mi amigos for their dinner out. It was best for me to stay still and soak my foot and rest. I could not even type on my laptop so I knew all was far from well in Paradise!
Sunday, November 7
Although the sun came up bright with clear skies and lots of late am heat, I still felt a slight chill and stayed close to the bed, bathroom and water. Several concerned people called me offering assistance but I was already in good hands. I tried to eat a little take-out chicken my roomies had picked up for our lunch since I could not move far and started thinking that the fever resulted from a sandal scrape and resulting blister which had allowed germs into my blood stream and caused this infection which my body fought with heat, thus a fever. I had started placing a bacterial cream on the area topped with fresh Band-Aids and popped antibiotics which the farmacia prescribed for my ailment. Within 2 hours the pain in my foot was 50% reduced and I was able to walk around the condo not too painfully. Still, it was more sleep for me and some chatting with my friends. I actually started doing a bit of work when not in bed or on the balcony watching the beach scenes. Maybe I was going to survive! When I heard talk about blood poisoning and doctor trips, I willed myself to improve and fast...and did. Each couple hours brought lessened pain and though the sore looked quite bad, I kept it treated and covered when not in hot water in the tub. Hard to keep a restaurant reviewer in his casa for all that long, we walked a short block and a half back to one of our fun favorite local spots, Mama Dolores Diner, Olas Altas 534B near Pulpito OT/SS. I had in mind the Sunday special worth stopping by often for: Sunday turkey dinner with all the trimmings 5pm-10pm 110p; choice of white or dark meat, good dressing, real mashed potatoes, crisp fresh veggies and cranberry sauce. My friends opted for bbq ribs and a whole huachinango [red snapper] with a great sauce, beautifully presented. Mama D was there and all the staff made us feel at home and my illness very distant. We love this place and people. Tired, it was home for me while my friends went out on the town for a long sojourn. I think I slept another 10 hours. Enough of this already! Places to go, people to see, things to do...
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