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Last day for a little while
Wednesday, November 10
Awakened by two amigos saying adios, hasta la vista, until next time, at 6:20am as they prepped for the sad slow ride to the aeropuerto and home, of sorts. Abandoned, I sure could not go back to sleep so after laying silent and mulling the day's upcoming events, I arose and hit the laptop to do as much work as possible offline before going to the cyber cafe where I have to pay. Next time I really need Internet access in my casa. Realizing that this is my last full day, I wished to hike around town south of Río Cuale before the sun sent hot rays beating on the streets where no bay breezes penetrated. There were five taco stands I needed to locate, check menu and write down info, plus have lunch at one before that mission could be recorded as done at least for the time being, as there are many more I did not have written down and still others for which I had no descriptions or locations. Before leaving the casa and pool, I knew which stand I just had to eat at due to very tempting descriptions from two amigas. So, I organized them on a map and wrote which I would head to first, second, third, eliminating as much backtracking as possible, thus ending at the one where I would sample lunch. I imagine I create quite stir while jotting notes at stands where the employees and customers stare and wonder who is this gringo, loco or what? I shrug it off with smile and say 'adios'. On I trudge, crossing streets, many times at risk of body, always looking both ways since drivers here love to back up on one way streets. Where are the transit cops we have seen all over the place this trip...stopping another tourist for cash? Watch the cobblestones and small ruts carefully so as not to twist an ankle, or worse! I meander the corners at will, sensing that this town is mine too, not referring to the map all that much. Familiar shops and signs are spotted everywhere. Have I not walked past that place a dozen times in the past wonderful three weeks? Oh, that store is showing signs of life so maybe the owners are going to open after all. Gave it up for dead two weeks ago.
There it is, the hunger pains will soon be abated: Marisma's Fish Taco I and II Naranjo 320 between Basilio Badillo and Venustiano Carranza OT/SS; second at Marina Vallarta Condominios Marina del Rey behind Neptuno Plaza. 222-1395. 9am-5pm Closed Monday. Sherry says by far the best 10p fish taco she ever had, shrimp taco 12p both battered and deep-fried. Also smoked marlin quesadilla 18p, ceviche tostada 7p and agua fresca as guava 6p. Served with five homemade salsas as avocado cilantro, fresca, soy with onion. Clean, bar seating at the cart and chairs at table under a magnificent Ficus tree. Brenda recommends this stand very popular with locals and visitors.
This is the first taco stand I have seen where they use a deep fat fryer so that in and of itself interested me. And was it good, shrimp and fish. Unusual but superb and their sauces were marvelous especially the avocado/cilantro creamy light sauce. One young lady is learning English and doing quite well, so it was fun conversing with her, each of us teaching a few words or phrases of the other's native tongue. A real cutie, too. I loved how she asked me a couple times if I liked the comida. Of course the answer was a loud resounding si en Español. After a stop at a beautiful condo apartment which the owners wish to rent weekly, I headed on down the hill to Olas Altas flat land and was right back in the heartbeat of OldTown where I love, live and breathe...and hate to depart. Big night ahead so back to the sofa and some news and reading to rest my feet and back. Cool breezes bathed me as I relaxed and thought back over the past 22 days. Waves of memories crossed my conscience, many of which I would never forget as they were that impressive and pleasant. New and old amigos to share the sunlight with on days to follow, filled with laughter and craziness. I can envision it all now in the near distance. Keeps your spirit invigorated though those dark and dismal days which never seem to end.
Before I know it, the clock marks 7:30pm and I am not even presentable for my public. Hurriedly I don a bright tropical parrot shirt and blue shorts and off I go to Restaurant Row to the old 180 [before that Chef Roger] Boca Bento, Basilio Badillo 180 OT/SS. 222-9108 www.bocabento.com Hours unannounced. New owner remodeled and opened Latina Asiatica fusion hot spot November 11, 2004. Small tapas-style plates combining the two styles of cooking are presented in an Asian set of rooms highlighted by a golden Buddha statue, pebbles, candles and fabricated palapa roof. Stylish spot needs reports of the food items. Met with the new owners and some other amigos but then the volume of people increased such that it was time for me to exit and off I went to type a little before the next and final big event of this trip.
N. O. [New Orleans] Jazz concert was held on the beach beteen La Palapa and El Dorado in front of the whale sculpture on 11/10/04, part of the ongoing film festival. It was preceded by a free concert on the malecon by Juan Gabriel, one of Mexico's top pop male artists. I did not attend that one due to fears of enormous crowds [which were accurate].
The beach concert was free, with bamboo and wood chairs supplied by El Dorado and plastic ones by La Palapa in a half moon facing east. The stage was erected in two levels with concert speakers flanking in various areas. Waiters served cool drinks unobtrusively though the temperature was most pleasant with light breezes off the bay. The audience was most receptive but sadly there was room for more goers. El Dorado set up a beach bar table with premixed margaritas behind long tables under palapas for diners and listeners. Several movers and shakers were there, warmly greeted by owner Luis Wulff and his mother Nelly Barquette.
Don Harris from New Orleans, sweating profuselyand removing his tie pronto, led his 4 piece band in a beginning light jazz number which went on for almost 15 minutes, highlighting each musician whom he softly introduced. He played sax, there were two guitarists, one keyboard master and a percussionist/drummer. The crowd appeared to love each one in their own way with hearty applause after each special solo. Don would sing and hum at times and even jumped into playing keyboard a couple times before it was covered with Marti Gras plumes. A fun time was had when he bounced onto the drums with hard rat-a-tats with the crowd going wild. His music really did swing.
Highlights I wrote down were My Cheri Amour [30-year-old Stevie Wonder song], Feel Like Making Love [Roberta Flack from the '70's], and a long, wild, driving medley of Marti Gras songs made popular he said by the locals whom he termed 'Indians'. I did wonder if they were the Cajuns, known for very fine musical numbers and bands for those of us who have visited this fabulous American city.
He then broke for a '15 minute' break but after a while, I headed upstairs since I had much to do before turning in for the night before I left the next day, sadly, but happy knowing I will be back and enjoy more fine musical events. I could hear more jazz music as I packed and organized.
Look for good news coming from the Green Chairs with live music according to their manager starting in December and continuing 4-8pm until April!!!
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