We flew off from San Francisco 15 minutes early since the plane was quite vacant and landed in Puerto Vallarta 1/2 hour early at 2:35pm. That time was spent on slow customs and peso changing [10.82 pesos per US dollar] but who cares? Off to La Palapa into my large studio condo with a wonderful view looking south and west. All the staff is here, so attentive and accommodating. Balcony has a table with three chairs and the unit features a couch, two chairs, TV, DVD and CD players, glass-topped table for my laptop and two chairs, fully equipped kitchenette and extra wide king bed. Bathroom is large though closet space limited, but how much room do I need for shorts and short-sleeved shirts? Indigenous artwork adorns walls, shelves, furniture and fixtures. I was surprised immediately with the moderate temperatures coupled with that fine gentle breeze off the Bahía. Superb.

Could not stay inside long after unpacking and off I wandered along the cobblestones streets I have come to call home through the years. This place open, this one closed for a while, that one folded and gone forever. Ran into a couple people immediately and chatted briefly. Yes, I am back, as you knew I would be! Stocked up with just a few items at Rizo's...chips, bottled water for my hiking and a couple sugar-coated fruit empanadas. Ah, the lure of the Internet and into my cafe I went upon seeing the summer special was offered already...10 hours for 150p. Desired a rest so back home I trod, watched CNN and decided a taco stand [of sorts] had my name on it and went to Takos Panchos [sic] and ordered lightly, just two open-face chicken tacos, a chorizo quesadilla and glass of Jamaica. I sat inside at a table and talked with the owner/mesero. Strolled and jotted down restaurant notes, then headed home for much needed sleep. Plenty of time for errands and business duties.

Up early, sleeping more than I am accustomed, almost 8 hours. Head out onto the streets in search of new info for my guide. Looked up several spots I had been emailed concerning and made notes of which to return and explore. Such a happy day with the locals out performing their duties, living their lives, kids playing, festivities being set up for the construction workers holiday. Over alongside the church on Aguacate a series of white tents were erected and a buffet of cooked comida was dished to the revelers. Several large decorated cakes were set on a separate table. I wondered to myself if I could pretend to know someone and jump right into the lines. No, I think not. Small carnival rides made of brilliantly colored painted metal occupied one block for nighttime fun. I decided upon

Lázaro Cárdenas 452, upstairs at Jacarandas OT/SS.
222-9327 machispv@yahoo.com
Noon-2am, 4pm-2am Sun.
Enrique and Adriana offer an inexpensive eclectic menu of avocado shrimp 50p, tortilla soup 25p, fish and chips 55p, mahi mahi Veracruzana 60p, bbq ribs 90p, pork chop 75p, rib eye 65/120p, filet mignon 95p, bacon wrapped mahi mahi stuffed with crab and shrimp 80p, bacon wrapped shrimp 95p, shrimp mignon scampi or mushroom 95p, chicken chipotle 60p, arrachera with guacamole, rice and beans 70p, hamburger 12p or double 28p from 12-5pm and sandwiches as BLT or chicken 30-45p. Good limonada and fried ice cream with choco 28p. Indoor and some balcony seating. Live music in high season. Nightly reservations recommended.

The arrachera was flavorful and so very tender, wrapped in warm tortillas with a good cilantro chile salsa, rice, pintos and guacamole. Adriana is a real sweetie.

Caught up online for 1.5 hours and back to enter data onto my floppy disk. Stretched out with the cool brisas and sounds of the town but stirred shortly to the phone and a voice making more plans! Hard to imagine anything more blissful than sitting on the balcony looking at the southern stretch of the Bahía, listening to the unending crash of waves and shouts from la playa. Mountains, swaying palms, rocks, white surf, sand, people and cascading hillsides of homes. After relaxing and reading with the background vista, it was time to have the sandals hit the cobblestones or there would be no dinner. Back to the carnival but now the streets were humming and rocking, a live dance band amplified song after song while stands dished up platters of food; children chased one another and screamed on the miniature rides. A Tuesday night of fun, food and fiesta. The noise was too great for me to sit and enjoy a meal so I headed a few blocks distant to

Aquiles Serdán 380 between Insurgentes and Aguacate OT/SS.

7pm-12:30am Closed Wednesday.

Pozole 38p [surtido=combination of pork and chicken 48p] is the draw plus gorditas 30-50p, tacos 30p, sopes picadillo 30p or chicken 55p and enchiladas 35p. Jamaica and other fresh drinks 8p. Local favorite.

The pozole portion was indeed grande and the senora knew how to flavor the stock and load it with pieces of meat and hominy. An indigenous dish which should not be missed. Crisp tortillas and a couple salsas accompanied it. My feet and back ached from the ambitious day so, after chatting with an amigo on the sidewalk, all I could muster was a slow stroll back to lovely La Palapa and turn in around 1am.

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Up to the light of Paradise and cafe'd for a jump start of another day. Needed to get some early rays and pool time. Pretty empty up on the roof and the guys are installing new tiles all around the roof perimeter so that will make it a slight construction zone for this visit. At least we have some comfy lounges and the potted plants are blooming and doing spectacularly. Watched the playa start to awaken and decided it was time for my departure once more. Weaving amongst the locals and a few tourists, I ended up on Basilio Badillo, Venustiano Carranza, Francisco I. Madero, Lázaro Cardenas and back to B. B. Stopped in Café Catedral. Such a pleasant small spot which also accomplished my mission to stock up on a good ground coffee for my condo, purchasing a kilo of Chiapas cafe. Every employee was so friendly and accommodating, including my nearby fellow patron. Just like old home week! I decided upon machaca with eggs, beans, fresh fruit and cafe after reading both the breakfast and lunch menus.

Basilio Badillo 317 between Constitución and Insurgentes OT/SS.

8am-10pm Closed Sunday and August 15-October 28.

Owner Heriberto Gutiérrez serves reasonably priced large servings as breakfast eggs and meat with juice or fruit and coffee 43p, pancakes or waffles 30-50p, fresh veggie or fruit juice 18p, escamouchas [chopped fruit with orange juice] 18p, latte 15p, milk shakes 16-22p, lunch comida corrida 45p, machaca 50p, chimichangas 50p, salads 35-45p, filet mignon or tampiqueña 95p,Tres Marias beef medallions 125p, Catedral shrimp with creamy mushroom sauce 130p, pork ribs 65p, enchiladas 55p, spaghetti 45p, chicken 5 ways 65p and many vegetarian items. Chiapas coffee beans 75-85p/kilo. No CC.

Another must on everyone's list. Machaca with eggs and onions plus accompaniments was flavorful and filling. Reasonable, tasty and local. My back was stiff and pained as were my feet so sat on a painted metal bench and watched people one after another walk by in all directions. It is fun to allow your mind to wander and fantasize what their lives are like, to where they are off, what is next in store and who they will soon see. Can only imagine what they think I am up to!

After more walking and spotting familiar faces from trips gone by, I landed back on home field, sprawling on the balcony with a few brochures and magazines as the sun slowly dropped. Eve was still light at 8:15pm when slight hunger pains hit me and I decided it best choose an eatery for a small repast, nothing fancy, just something simple from a place I have not been. Out comes my guide and marked up notes when it dawned on me that there was somewhere I have walked by many times never finding it open, as it is like many taco stands only open nightly. It was referred to me as a place where the owner/chef of Café des Artistes was spotted dining so that tells you something. An urge was filled to satisfaction beyond my hopes.

Aguacate 239 at Venustiano Carranza OT/SS.

7pm-12am

Reputed to be among the very best reasonably priced burgers in town, with cheese 29p, double with cheese 39p or vegetarian 18p. Charcoal grilled and served on huge 6" golden homemade buns. Hotdogs are 13/15p and huge portion of papas fritas 14p. They close when the food runs out. Small place, a hidden gem with counter and a few tables. Well-priced and humongous.

The cheeseburger was perfect and who could resist those homemade buns and very fresh potatoes? I had not strolled the entire length of Isla Rio Cuale and was amazed at how beautiful and twinkling are the main restaurants Oscars, River Cafe and Le Bistro at night. Along the path lovers softly murmured in the dark edges, tropical birds screeched through the stillness and cats scampered in front of you from bush to underbrush.

Today has got to be at least one of the excursions through downtown so I must cross that bridge and head north along the main roads and byways. This is the heart of the business section of town, full of fine shops, galleries and restaurants plus many more tourists. Government offices surround the main square or zocolo and the large Our Lady of Guadalupe Church is the centerpiece. Much construction is being done on the Malecon along toward the Rio and will continue in front of Molino de Agua to make it one long stretch of pavement thus avoiding walking on the sandy beach. But for now one must weave in and out, watching every step where holes and broken fences may lead to a twisted ankle or worse! Burned up a day's worth of calories and checked out many spots until I settled on

Morelos 552 at Corona DT.

222-1068

9am-6pm Closed Sunday.

Indoor countertop run for 22 years by ladies serving machaca burritos 3 for 50p, quesadillas, 25p, fruit plate 45p, pork, Milanesa, ham or chicken torta on wonderful rolls 25p and cheeseburger 30p. Licuados [fresh fruit smoothies made with water 20p or milk 25p] and fruit juices 15-30p. No CC.

I was thrilled with the fine Milanesa torta with guacamole sauce and salsa fresca plus a guayaba licuado. Just enough portion and super flavors to savor. Took a slow stroll along the Malecon and watched a few artists at work. General consensus of the locals with which I conversed is that the high season was indeed very good but that they have a lot of catching up to do in order to make up the lost ground of past years after the dot.com bust and then 9/11. Headed back to what I call Old Town and did not arrive back to my pleasant abode until almost 6pm. Where do the daylight hours pass? But what is great this time of the year is that 8pm it is still light. Makes the days stretch longer and we love that! More bang for your buck, or peso.

La Tía Catrina
Francisco I. Madero 202 at Pino Suárez OT/SS.
4-11pm Closed Sunday.
Fusion tapas bar operated by Erin and Héctor in their store "Passiflora." Comfortable couches and indigenous artwork provide a relaxed dining atmosphere. Tortilla or beet soup 35p, black bean hummus 25p, seafood sampler 130p, Caesar salad 40p, fish or shrimp brochette 50p, fish or shrimp ceviche 35p, pork cordon bleu 85p, fish with fruit salsa 50p, mahi mahi stuffed with shrimp and scallops 95p and Beto's spare ribs 50p. Méxican specialties made by Héctor's mother, Ethelia, include chiles rellenos 50p, enchiladas 50p, arrachera or pork tacos 50p and creamy flan 30p.

I decided after a long, long time to opt for a smaller item, the pollo enchilada mole which was superb, the sauce being rich, smooth but not cloying. With an iced tea I was satiated and smiling. Service was warm and attentive. A fine place to relax and meld into the surroundings. The place seemed to glow. Spent almost an hour online checking my groups and quick emails. Anything major will wait until I am back using my monthly service in San Francisco. Sent out a couple local posts to certain people making aware that I am available for get-togethers. Have that pocket organizer/calendar handy!

Not a wispy cloud in the bright blue sky and cooling light brisas which make for a perfect environment. I think back to the people who complained this past winter being here for a week and having nothing but light drizzle, clouds and gray skies. What a difference! Barely up and starting the coffee when Leslie phones to suggest lunch, making another new amigo/amiga from the vast Internet. Sure, where, right where I am staying? Porque no? A delightful locale, friendly service and the food presentation is tops. It was good to be back at a table there once more. We conversed as if we were long lost pals seeing each other after some time, catching up on current happenings and reminiscing about PV days gone by. She had told me how she prefers to pay a few more pesos for lunch and dine right on la playa with great food and service. She opted for her fave chicken burritos and I chose the shrimp crêpes. Their presentation is a sight to behold. Such a lovely way to fulfill our hunger and enjoy fine conversation.

We slumped into the peaceful environment, chatting and comparing past and present experiences of our beloved pueblo. She is an artist who enjoys all of Mexico, its vibrant colors and people. It is always fun seeing beach vendors year after year and exchanging pleasantries. Strolling later we stopped by certain favorite eateries of hers with which I was unfamiliar and had no information as to quality. Owners and employees as waiters, a chef and managers encouraged inclusion in my guide. Especially enjoyable was the far East end of the Isla Rio Cuale, furthest from where the rio enters the bay. There she showed me the Cultural Center for Arts: painting, drawing, lithography, sculpture and poster making. I was so very pleased to see classrooms where students can learn the mechanics of art and express their innate talents.

Time for me to head on back to my playa, stop at the Internet Cafe for an hour and home to elevate my feet and then type on my laptop. Before you could say 'olas altas' it was time to hike outside and seek a suitable taco stand from my list of small family spots for checking out. Not an easy task since besides being so many temptations, some were so crowded on this end of the week night that there were no spots to sit and I was in no mood or energy to stand and eat dinner, not tonight.

It sure is nice not viewing much TV and reading very little newspaper articles except for the interesting local ones. English editions are easy to find now but when I first would visit here there were none to be found except the Mexico City News delivered on the beach by an old man shouting out the headlines to entice gringos to purchase. I remember one morning I bought a prior day's issue, which I had gotten from him. He was abusive that I desired my pesos returned! Old as yesterday's news.

Aguacate at Basilio Badillo OT/SS.

7pm-2am Closed Monday.

For 17 years, Memo and wife María have served very fine fast food to the locals. Famous for baked potato with sour cream and salsa 25p, with ground beef 30p and huge shrimp and onion burrito 50p. Also handmade tortillas, complimentary chunky guacamole sauce, tacos 7p, quesadillas 12p and hamburgers 24p.

Had a wonderful time chatting with this young couple [are they really 40 years old?] who own this stand. I learned a lot about how a small business gets set up and hopefully survives on the side of a street. Although I opted for the huge chunky shrimp burrito with guacamole on top, I am going to try very hard to return for the baked potato with all the trimmings. My mouth waters as my senses absorb.

Upon entering our lobby, front desk amigo Juan Ramon Navarro displayed his artwork which he produces as he sits in the quietude. He sketches local scenes from memory in black pencil and then later paints his favorites with watercolors. He won his first art competition award, a trip for four to Mazatlan, when he was 16. I do hope his creations reach an audience and was pleased that one condo owner purchased a large town vista for her abode in Cabo San Lucas. Time to sit and relax on the balcony eyes glazing as the waves ebbed and flowed, one after another, with a silvery gray black shine reflecting the moon and a few stars.

Arose early to pure white skies and thought that the weather would clear after all the bragging I have done. Sol did not seem awake enough to break through, though later in the afternoon, the town became bright and the temperature was a most pleasant moderate. No shivering in my tee shirt here.

I am just amazed that every time I come back to our Southside at least two mariscos grills have popped up, some with plastic umbrella covered tables seating almost 100. Mainly shrimp and fish brochettes or whole huachinango con salsa picante and lime are served with beer, sodas and coconuts topped and filled with a liquid. Strolling mariachis try to sing a living and at the very least fill the air with harmony and beat, all this within a few feet of the surf. And what a vista! Do these natives realize what they have? They sure seem content and appear happy. I know I am. Very pleased to see many plastic bag lined metal containers for refuse. Near Daiquiri Dick's I found a new stand purveying a formidable selection of fresh roasted nuts. I got peanuts picante 15p and sugared 20p and eyed the cashews 25p. I had the hardest time in the northern area of downtown finding a place open which I had on my must-go list. Did record data on a couple places for dinner later with amigos. Slowly walked south on the Malecon sipping my agua mineral to stave off dehydration and spotted some sort of fiesta set up in the main zocolo at the foot of the Church and City Hall. Red plastic Coke roofs shaded people purveying food and beverage. To my surprise from what I could figure from the Spanish-only signs that this was a tamale festival with recipes representing a number of Central and South American countries [Peru, Ecuador, Mexico, Venezuela, Peru, Chile and Cuba]. I finally opted for the one from Columbia, what it was exactly I was unsure. It was a huge cornmeal tamale with chicken and beef, bones and all, topped with cilantro onion salsa. With it I sipped a papaya [?] fruit drink. 60p for both. Went to another booth thinking their beverage was Jamaica but it was called samora, bright red with black seeds, like a watermelon. Quite tasty all around and a real experience which I just stumbled upon.

Waved at Jose 'the muffin man' whom I have known for over 12 years. He has gained weight from marriage and three kids but his pastry selection now includes fruit turnovers and individual pies. Being late in the afternoon, the lack of freshness showed and even though he was offering an end of the day sale, I begged off until later when I see him in the AM along la Playa. Took a needed short siesta and headed south along the playa to Ritmos Cafe for 'Overtura' concert from a stage on the sand but no one was there to enjoy them. Headed out along the byways.

Aquiles Serdán 380 between Insurgentes and Aguacate OT/SS.

7pm-12:30am Closed Wednesday.

Small casual neighborhood spot specializes in very tasty pozole 38p [surtido=combination of pork, beef and chicken 48p] plus gorditas 30-55p, tacos 30p, sopes picadillo 30p or chicken 55p and enchiladas 35-40p. Jamaica and other fresh drinks 8p. Local favorite.

After taking a walk for slow exercise amongst the locals enjoying their Saturday night I stopped by The Palm and it was closed. A few of us were to meet there for Ida Slapter [and you can, too] show but neighbor employee had no clue as to why they were not open. So much for my entertainment all evening! But all was not lost as the weekend night gave us a huge fireworks display from off Conchas Chinas, not off the Malecon from the Marigalante Pirate Ship per usual. The bay glimmered with colors and then faded to silver. Wide streams and puffs of white smoke wafted along the shore. The colors were spectacular and brilliant.

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Ah, Paradise! Back to clear blue skies and rippling waves and surf out my balcony. Up at the roofpool but no one there. Sunday is traditional beach day and the families are out in full force with baskets, thermos and ice chests, plus most of the food they will eat during this day of relaxation and swimming. Kids shout gleefully, splashing anyone who is within their range. Pleasure boats sped south with folks seeking a day away from the hubbub. Stayed a while and am pleased to see that the building's roof tiling job is complete. Now I can visualize my roasted takeout chicken tasting up on the roof with friends new and old. It will be done blind and we will tally the votes sometime next week.

I wanted to see what Lynnda was up to with her remodeling and colorful artistic painting upstairs from the Santa Barbara Theater in Que?Pasa. Very reasonable food is being served in coordination with various live music events. Tuesday is their first anniversary.

Olas Altas 351 OT/SS.

Noon-5pm, 6-10pm Mon.-Sat., 11am-3pm, 6:30-9:30pm Sun.

Second floor of Santa Barbara Theater where plays are frequently staged is Lynnda Lucas's popular colorful hangout where Brenda Martin serves cheeseburger 35p, hot dog 15p, sausage 40p, chicken sandwich 35p, some dinners as filet mignon 60p, grilled chicken breast 50p and specials as roast pork and turkey. Live music Tue.-Thurs. 8-11pm, Redneck Mothers Tue., open mic benefit for children's orphanage Mon. and Fri. 5-8pm, call first.

Today was Brenda's brunch menu offering and I opted for smoked salmon Benedict croissant with fruit plate for 69p. tasty with an unlimited coffee cup. The omelets looked good, too. We were treated to a very fine concert at Ritmos Beach Cafe by Don and Rhonda, actually a quartet with lead male singer and harmonica, female singer and electric keyboard, drummer and guitarist with harmony. It was their final event of this season and the pair heads back to Canada. They announced that they will make all attempts to perform here again regularly come November/December. The palapa stage at the south end of Playa Los Muertos is unique. Tony Tune has availed the locals and visitors alike a very fine, fun-filled location and atmosphere. Just imagine...sitting on the beach in a chair or lounger, having a beverage of choice on a small wooden table with service from the bar and restaurant, swaying to music of various styles with sun rays all around, breezes off the bay and the slowly setting sun. Leave a tip for the server and the musicians and off you head for an evening elsewhere as the final song wafts into the air to applause.

A partial list of the songs:

Jelly Roll Blues

Unchain My Heart [a tribute to Brother Ray]

Cup of Coffee [Java]

Papa Was a Rolling Stone

23 Hours Too Long [an original tune]

I'm Ready for You

Drift Away

Francisco I. Madero at Constitucion OT/SS.

Owned by La Iguana, great 24 hour spot for breakfast all day: eggs 25p, with ham 28p, omelets 28p, comida corrida 40p, homemade tortillas, tacos de maiz 79, tacos de harina 9p, quesadillas 8-15p, tortas 18p, machaca or pollo mole 40p and pescado with rice and salad 60p. Very clean, with a rear seating area.

Place that never closes and they serve up fast food at very good prices. Hungry? Get a small plate of hot homestyle food, a couple tacos or a sandwich and off you go with a warm feeling.

Up at 7:45am to cafe, shower and get onto the city bus then the ATM to Nuevo Vallarta to team up with Sherrye to head north for our full day in Bucerias, an event to which I had been so looking forward quite a long time. It is a special magical waterfront town, building up as much of this area has been, maybe even more. Met within minutes of each other and off we trekked. First she wished to check a couple local spots for info and then on Highway 200 we drove north. The river splits this town in two widthwise so we opted to visit all the places on the south side first, have lunch, then finish with the northern ones. It is an ambitious plan and we will accomplish all we can, leaving more work for another time. But first was a quick refreshment of oatmeal raisin scone and cappuccino at Pie in the Sky, this longtime fixture. Excellent. Refreshed and ready to rumble.

The day was absolutely beautiful and we enjoyed driving along, stopping here and there. I had a fine map from the Internet which showed all the eateries of the area, most of which were still in business and a few additions to visit. We asked at the door for a menu and business card, sat down at a table and picked out items of interest for my restaurant guide, with prices and a short description of the place and locale. Some places ended high on my list for attractiveness with an inviting atmosphere and menu. Others were best described as a spot for a quick simple meal. As the sun went higher in the sky and our bodies wore a bit, we headed to Sandrina's to see Sandy once again, get a nice creative meal and sit in her backyard garden area amidst plants, decorations and her artwork off the beaten path.

It was such a pleasant stopover and although we hated to leave, we had much still ahead and she had her own work to do. we had to head back east to the dusty highway and cross over to one place and then head north over the river and turn left taking a western direction into the northern portion of Bucerias. Immediatel;y before the zocolo [plaza or central square] there were several eateries on my list, then parked at the square and started heading north along the bayfront. Beach vendors headed up and down the shore with such a gorgeous backdrop of the entire bay. Refreshing with a cold agua mineral, we rested and collected our thoughts, mapping out the final portion of this sojourn of data-collecting. The number of stops may hit 25 making a very productive and satisfying day! Menu upon menu began to look similar and thoughts were more difficult to put down into words, so we decided it was time to go back to the highway south and home. But we happened upon a place which was a new sister of two Puerto Vallarta restaurants, one of which I had eaten at many times over the past 20-some years, and thought that since we were there, we might as well get some info. Immmediately greeted by one of the owners, we introduced ourselves and explained our aim. She sat us in the midst of adorable rabbits and small chickens, living happily in sort of a park or unrestricted zoo. Tortilla chips were their desire so we obliged them and enjoyed their antics as we looked over the menu and chatted with Irene. Sherrye suggested we stay and have a small dinner so we did not need to seek out another place in an hour or two. Sharing a Caesar salad and hearts of palm from Brazil, we added an order of coconut prawns with a slightly sweet sauce. Plenty of food for an early repast after a formidable lunch.

Cueto's Mariscería III Hidalgo 102 Bucerías, Nayarit 329-298-2410 Noon-9:30pm Family's third establishment with many fresh seafood choices as seafood cocktails 75p, 5 soups 59-89p, mariner's special salad for 2 189p, 7 seafood cazuelas 109p, broiled whole fish 109p, mahi mahi, sea bass or red snapper fillet 89p, crawfish from Río Ameca 215p, frogs legs 89p, sea conch 109p, jumbo shrimp garlic or coconut 199p, Sayulita oysters 109p and lobster 3 ways 250p.

Time to be dropped off at a bus stop and onward I flew down the road with a packed bus of locals finished with their day's work, as was I. Energized, I visited my Interent cafe and worked a little before going back to my residence and putting my feet up, relaxing [especially my sore back and feet] in front of the TV and reading some of the day's brochures and menus. It was good to get out of the hustle bustle town and then wonderful to return with a new perspective.

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Mother's Day in Mexico, although the ladies with whom I chatted said it was business and work as usual, with just a couple being invited out on the town in honor of their years of familial devotion. But some places were being decked out with bright balloons and vases of fresh flowers. The florist shops I passed were doing blockbuster business and young people clutched wrapped bouquets or carried small bright arrangements on the town's sidewalks, heading to their casas to honor mother. Very touching and a well-deserved gesture. Desiring to observe the inner tickings of SouthSide, still called OldTown by many residents and visitors alike, I walked up into the lower hills and took in the various sights, the sounds, the smells and finally the tastes of a local downhome quick spot for a sort of Mexican fast food. Ofe's Shack* Francisco Madero 366 near Insurgentes. OT/SS. 8am-4pm
Ask for owner Ofelia or Keila. Fine Mexican home cooking especially breakfasts 20-55p, as pork sausage or chop, eggs and hashbrowns 50p. Also fish filet garlic 50p, burger and fries 30p, salads 25-40p, sandwiches 15-35p, pork chipotle 45p, pollo mole 45p, enchiladas Suizas 35p, steak ranchero 45p and vegetarian burrito 30p.

Very basic and laidback but the food was cooked quickly and is tasty, served with smiles of probably three generations of ladies. My good amigo Bill arrived for a stay of only 10 days but he has been back twice since November, working on upgrading his 2 br, 2 ba loft-style condo up the hills from the highway in Alta Vista. He hopes to accomplish a bunch of projects and get a little needed rest. Good luck! He is buying another TV, fan, 4 chairs, redo his large curtains, build an iron gate to enclose his patio area, buy a few more hardy plants, paint some walls and chipped tiles, get a bbq grill for outdoors, some indoor art accessories and wall hangings. He talked a mile and minute, getting in more than his fair share of words, which is sure saying something when talking with me. He had eaten so very little in the last 12 hours, a short layover in Las Vegas, and of course airlines feed little or nothing these days, so we headed out to keep him from collapsing. Back to one of our faves, Takos Panchos, on Basilio Badillo, restaurant row. We just kept ordering from the owner/waiter, tacos and quesadillas, al pastor being our top choice, the one hand carved from that cylindrical roast with a bit of pineapple. That is a must on every visit at least once or twice. He was near crashing but the thrill of being in town with all his plans kept his adrenalin going. We parted so he could start anew in the am and meet a few of us for a special lunch. I spent some much needed time on the balcony, then the laptop working offline and then to bed with the gentle roar of the surf in my ears and curled up with a light blanket to ward off the slight chill in the early am.

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My long-planned and well-publicized including the Internet Blindfolded Chicken takeout tasting finally came to be this lunchtime. We had seven 'lovers', all but two being local residents, one cancellation and one no-show. Sadly, I found out that these chickens are not fully cooked and ready until 2-3pm so we had yesterday's roasters. We had to take that into consideration. TJ composed a tasting tally sheet and we all placed ratings and comments and opening discussed each entry. I am reprinting Joy's article written for the Vallarta Tribune:

"The Great Chicken Taste Off was Gary Beck’s idea. He’s a big fan of chicken and perceives it, quite accurately I reckon, to be Mexico’s favorite fast food.

So there are a million and one chicken places round Puerto Vallarta, but which one is the best? Last Wednesday at noon, a trusty band of chicken lovers gathered at Gary’s La Palapa rental to find out.

Each person was to bring a chicken from their favorite takeout place; each chicken was numbered and lay in anonymity waiting for the tasters to begin.

We ended up with five plates from four different places and learned a number of important things straight away:

Don’t ask Leslie to bring roast chicken any distance and expect it to arrive in tact.

Don’t hold a chicken taste off at noon, you’ll get yesterdays chickens and, as Adam will plainly and clearly tell you, that’s not a fair test at all.

Don’t say you will bring a chicken to a taste test and then not turn up, especially if yours was a particularly important chicken venue.

Don’t buy chickens from inside supermarkets even though it’s cheaper, because it continues to cook in the plastic wrap under ultraviolet lights and ends up with a funky texture.

Do invite TJ and Helen to any event you host, Chicken Taste Off or otherwise. TJ not only made up extremely official chicken taste test forms for us to fill in, he made pecan tassies for desert, and Helen cleaned up and did the dishes!

So with these things established I offer the results of the first Chicken Taste Test Trial:

El Pollo Pepe opposite Office Depot was the largest and at 79 pesos the most expensive and impressive looking chicken. Sadly it looked a lot better than it tasted.

Pollo de Oro opposite Lays was definitely the best deal. They give you two for one for 58 pesos, much smaller chickens of course but pretty good tasting. Also there’s a chance you’ll strike it lucky and get mesquite but there’s no guarantees on that, we weren’t in luck.

Angela and Adam bought their offering from Pollo de Oro as well, but added tajin spice which made it interesting.

Super Pollo opposite Rizos was voted best flavour, and average value at 60 pesos.

Soriana produced an artistically presented bird that arrived late and got the best chicken vote, but it was a shadowed win as it was brought in late and we suspect it was the only one cooked that day.

The good news was none of the chickens were undercooked.

The day’s disappointment was that none of the chickens had crispy skin!

The overall decision was that we need another Chicken Taste Off - at 3pm rather than noon - because many of the majors were missing - Gigante, Chillis, and the beach vendor by the Pier for a start.

All in all it was jolly good fun and we are looking forward to doing it again. Come and join us next time, meet some great folks, bring your favourite takeout chicken, and cast your vote.

Chinese and Sushi Taste Offs are also in the works. Thanks Gary for a great idea."

The great fun was it was such a it that we all broke rank saying that we must do a 2nd tasting, later in the day, plus other foods, as described above. New friendships were made plus old ones reinforced. I like the way my idea came into fruition. Smiles. Bill and I met Lothar and we taxied up to his condo in Alta Vista. He is so proud of all the work he has done since the first part of past November right after closing. He came for a small touch-up job and relaxation but has been busy with it since arrival and will not nearly accomplished everything by the time he departs the same day I do, in a week. Eeek! That is how ownership goes, even more so in Mexico! But he has a lot of which to be proud and has rentals starting to be lined up for high season. It is a nice 2 br, 2 ba loft place with a small patio with view and a good table and umbrella. Since purchasing 6 months ago, he now has 2 cable-hooked TVs, a DVD player, 2 A/C's and adequate furniture and bedding. My only drawback is the steps going up or coming down from two streets, but I suffer from neuropathy. Lothar and I stopped at Dee's Coffee Cup for a cafe and chat, then I did my Internet thing and Bill and I met up for a late-ish eve dinner at:

8am-11pm
Popular loud bar since 1980, complete with a burro for pictures, but on two upstairs levels the food has a reputation of being good and reasonable. Best choices are breakfast burrito 40p, omelets 45p, crêpes as shrimp and spinach in a cream sauce, 3 per serving with fresh fruit 50p, good burger with fries and soup or salad 65p, fish sandwich 67p, black bean soup 38p, herb-garlic bread, linguine al ajillo [garlic] 52p, fajitas 117p, bbq ribs 117p, seafood cazuela 70p, special tacos 59p, Andale burrito 65p, jumbo shrimp, seafood choice with pasta 117p and fish specials 125p. Tequila shooters.

Our burgers were just fine and we were the only diners and even the first floor bar was a bit quiet. I have noted that during the past 5 days the sidewalks are less populated and I see so many less visitors in general. I feel it is the lull before summer vacations start after school lets out and is time for my departure! Off we hiked to The Palm and enjoyed Ida Slapter's raucous show of great humor and song. I teared from laughter at times and we immediately decided to return for Friday's show which is more of a thematic display with an entire new slate of songs. It will be fun. Home for rest, reading, TV and bed.

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Decided after some cafe and typing that today was best to head north all along the Malecon snapping pix of all the new vistas of the construction [extension] and new sculptures which I had seen a little bit and wished my own camera angles. Of particular interest was a mounded artistic sand figure with the creator there collecting pesos for his efforts. I was far from the only ones recording the many vistas for later remembrances and sharing. It was a fine day for photos and I will be excited to see them, edit and upload to my web groups. I trudged up and down, heading right and left, up the hills, turning here and there until the hunger pangs could no longer be ignored. I can feel a slight warming trend in the weather comparing the daytime hikes to the first several of this visit. If one gets a few blocks east of the Malecon, the temp rises with the lack of bay breeze. It sure had gotten late but I felt good about my accomplishments. Desired a little comida corrida at a swell price would be just right so climbed her steps and ate at:

Gaby’s
Mina 252 at Hidalgo upstairs DT.
222-0480 resgaby@progidy.net.mx
8am-10pm Closed Sunday.
Luz Cristina Muñoz' reasonable Méxican fare as comida corrida [1-6pm] 45p 12-6pm: entrée as carne asada tacos, enchiladas rancheras, chicken mole verde or poblano with soup, homemade corn tortillas and fruit drink in a fun plant-filled spot. Large burritos 33-40p, guacamole with mild salsa 28p, good tortilla soup 40p, shrimp salad 55p, quesadillas 32-48p, tacos dorados 56p, shrimp 140-150p, fish fillets 90-115p, bbq ribs 88p, rib eye 100p, spaghetti with shrimp 98p, large margaritas and piña coladas.

What a charming lovely owner she is. We chatted about her history, family and the old black and white photos on the wall, dating from the 1910's to the 1960's with Liz and Dick in one shot looking every bit the top glamorous couple of that era. Wow. Nice repast, comfy, easy, warmly welcome. Then I had to wander the streets back down and south to SouthSide crossing the far west bridge past many vendors of simple handmade articles, some of which may be classified as art, others not. It appears to me that the white fairskinned [and burnt redskinned] tourists are quite the minority now...is cool seeing the town return to its rightful inhabitants, though the money of the travelers is extremely needed and the local income drops heavily now until late October. One must budget and save from the good months for the slow times approaching. many do not and find themselves struggling and possibly losing their means of subsistence. A saving grace is the influx of Mexicans from Guadalajara and Mexico City fleeing the hot stuffy towns for the beauty and water of this fine bay resort. School will soon be out in recess so vacation time is near for them. Back home to the ever-the-same vista from the balcony, with waves sliding in endlessly, the screams of kids from below and the soaring birds circling for a little lunch or dinner. Dive bombing pelicans make a smooth splash into the water's surface and with a huge gulp, one fish becomes a meal. They feed in small groups [families?] but the black and white frigates lead a life of solitude except during spring breeding time when the available males form a huge bright orange sack under the front bill. Desired something light and within a close walk, so ended up on Olas Altas to spend a little time with Lupita.

Papaya 3* Olas Altas 485 OT/SS. 223-8737 lapapaya3@hotmail.com 8am-10pm Closed Monday and Tuesday. Owner Lupita Castro graciously offers 30 kinds of smoothies 29p, fruits 29p, yogurts 35p, hot cakes with fruit 41p, 7 omelets 39p, 6 various salads 46-75p, soups 31-39p, pastas 59p, sandwiches with homemade bread 46p, Mexican and vegetarian specialties 35-78p, chicken 79p and fish 85p. Delivery service.

Oooh, Friday the 13th, I'm scared! Woooo...Well, life goes on...

I met Leslie at the appointed time for a lunch al fresco on the sidewalk cafe seating which enabled us to keep an entertaining eye on the foot traffic as we chatted and munched on comida corrida, her the enchiladas pollo verde and me pork chunks with adobe sauce, paired with jugo de tamarino, nice and tangy:

Sabor Ami Olas Altas 463 near Francisco I. Madero OT/SS. 8am-6pm Closed Sunday. Victor López Sanchez runs this small cafe with sidewalk seating featuring comida corrida [with soup of the day, rice, beans and agua fresca] 40p, chilaquiles 35p, hot cakes 35p, machaca with eggs 45p, hamburger 38p, chicken with tamarind, mango or plum 75p, fish with garlic 80p, bbq ribs 68p and birria or menudo Sat. 35p.

She was kind enough to take me to two boutiques which provide pre-owned clothes so I could look decent at two restaurants in the next several days. My companion will be bejeweled and elegant in fine clothes so she thought just possibly that my jeans would not make the cut! Encore is a fine shop and owner Mikki found me a great pair of gray dress slacks, lightweight for the tropics, but they must be tailored to shorten the cuffs. We headed back to her 'casa in transition', with a new roof in the rear being added for her painting area. She cooled us off with an iced cafe and we discussed art, people, dogs and life in Puerto Vallarta. Feeling it time to head home and get a few things done, we parted and I headed south along the beach watching locals enjoy their natural beauty all around them. Right south of the Los Muertos pier was a septet of percussionists who broke into vocals from time to time to the substantial end of the work week crowd. They were accomplished and entertaining. I could have stood there the rest of the evening. Bill later showed and had long reports of the progress at his condo. He is tired but happy. It will be quite presentable for rentals soon and then during future trips here he will be able to include fun activities instead of working the entire time and getting little sleep due to his nervous concerns. I suggested we go where we did not get to last night and treat ourselves to an upscale dining experience instead of tacos, quesadillas and comida corrida [granted I love all that food but wish a littler more pampering]:

Allende 344 near Miramar DT.

6pm-10pm Closed Tuesday.

Carmen Porras E.'s and Chef Juan Manuel Cruz J.'s eclectic menu choices of appetizers are plentiful to share for dinner. Place named for a Jaliscan flowering tree, offers old Méxican family recipe specialties include impressive pozole de camarón 35-80p, black bean soup 45p, 4 quesadillas filled with Oaxacan cheese and mushrooms or poblano strips [rajas] 60p, 4 plantain empanadas with black bean and cheese 60p, 4 ceviches 70-80p, 2 duck [pato] tostaditas 45p, nopal cactus pad salad with panela 55p, chicken breast pasilla 120p, chiles en nogada, very fine beef tenderloin mole 150p, thick pork chop with almond pecan sauce 120p, crispy duck carnitas 175p, grilled fish fillet achiote 140p and chocolate or cajeta flan 50p. Seafood enchiladas with hazelnut mole and chiles rellenos de jaiba [crab] are among weekend specials 170-210p. Open kitchen and a very lovely romantic partially covered courtyard, art-styled [sometimes local Huichol work] with Méxican influence. Attentive service with abundant portions and reasonable prices. Many Fridays and Saturdays live music, sometimes Los Frijoleros, call first.

I awoke at 8am with immediate thoughts of the night before and what a fine establishment Carmen has provided, more than a place to eat food, a place to enjoy, savor, communicate and feel warmly welcome to return again and again. With a couple appointments, I needed to run off and get a few errands done. I scampered along the streets and secured my pants for the upcoming two fine dinners of the first annual May Restaurant Week [actually 16 days]. A super opportunity to dine at some of the top establishments of the area at good prices for three course meals, some priced at 149p, others at 249p. After a quick Internet stop, I ran late for lunch by 10 minutes with Anna the editor of Vallarta Tribune, whom I had not met, at Vitea, the new cafe opened by Trio's owners/chefs on the new portion of the Malecon which is still torn up and looking poorly, plus construction hurting their business overall. The crowd was not too bad considering and we opted for a large table so we could spread out and conduct our restaurant biz discussions.

The time flew by as we discussed so many facets of our lives up to this point. we felt it would be good for me to get my name out there for people to see as to reviews of restaurants in the desire to build up interest for my soon-to-be-published guide, the manner and availability of which is still in its infancy. So, I felt I could send from time to time an article for her paper, maybe every couple months. Sure know I am loaded with ammunition and willing to compose! A great outlet and opportunity for me and for places which advertise in the Tribune. Quotes could be used in their future ads, too.

Mama Dolores Diner
Olas Altas 534B near Púlpito OT/SS.

228-4061 mamadolores4@hotmail.com
4-11pm [until end of October] Closed Sunday and Monday.
Part inside, part elevated sidewalk street café since 1996 now owned by Grant Hunermund and Kieran Justason from Toronto, Canada features simple Méxican and American fare as 1/3 lb. burger with French fries 50p, BLT 45p, turkey club 53p, chef's salad 55p, taco salad with choice of meat 53p, meat loaf 80p, fried chicken 75p, mac and cheese 75p, green salad with soup and bread 38p, ½ baby back pork ribs 80p, full 99p, fajitas 90p, mahi mahi 88p, whole fish 94p. Breakfast hot cakes or French toast 55p, eggs Benedict 58p, meat lover's omelet with chorizo, bacon and ham 60p, chicken fried steak with fried eggs 53p. Oct.-March: Sunday turkey dinner with all the trimmings 5pm-10pm 110p. Adult Soda Fountain Cocktails [floats, sodas, and shakes], Mama D´s Margarita Club - Buy 9, 10th is free. Beer 10p and margaritas 20p. Saturday night in high season meet Mama D! No CC.

Another Sunday on la playa...families splashing and laughing, eating and talking, enjoying the hot sun, surf and friends. They refuse to take it all for granted. Great to observe so many people spending their day off from a long hard week of work in pleasure. Do they not seem happier than the advanced societes? I have always thought so, almost viewed it with a tinge of jealously, or maybe it is admiration and respect. Due to a very high tide, the beach area for sitting or wading was cut by about half. Brochettes of camarones were being grilled on mesquite as fast as possible a la Mexico...munch, much, add some bottled picante salsa y limons. Wash it down with cervesas or aguas frescas. Contentment on la playa.

Lázaro Cárdenas 173 next to Hotel Eloisa OT/SS.

8am-10:30pm

Sidewalk cafe and inside seating with breakfast 28-68p, shrimp broth 58p, seafood soup 110p, comida corrida of soup, entrée and beverage 40p 1-6pm, smoked marlin salad 48p, melted cheese with chorizo 55p, fish fillet 5 styles 85p, whole fish 6 styles 110p, seafood burrito 85p, chicken 5 styles 65p, smoked pork chops 65p, burger and fries 55p, avocado with shrimp 68p, seafood salad 98p and milk shakes 18p. Popular with locals. No CC.

Restaurant Week, the first annual experience in May, opens tonight. "Week" is a misnomer since this event runs from May 15 through 31, 2005. Hopefully the participation is a success so that it continues year after year, thus encouraging dinners out by locals and visitors in the start of the value or low season. Seems like a super idea to me and I am excited as May is a common time for me to fly into Vallarta since the rental rates drop and the entire area is much less crowded. I can converse with restaurant owners and managers much easier. We opted to inaugurate with a trip to trio, ranked as one of the top area spots. With a three course special dinner [choice of one of the three per course] at 249 pesos, it is a very good value. Sherrye and I chose two of each course so we could sample more of the chef's presentations.

It was one of those very special nights again in Vallarta. First the wine sommelier stops by and we discuss California wines [I used to be a restaurant wine buyer and taster] and then Bernhard asks how everything is and I greet him so warmly and excitedly that he asks me if we have met before. Great conversations follow, then Sher was given a fine dessert wine and I my cafe and off we went into the blissful cool eve. Definitely another night to remember in our colorful warm memory bank.

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Got up at 8am after a good sleep, cafe'd, waited for Bill, a no show, so headed to Internet but ran into Tim, the new rental property agency owner and chatted about his website and incorporating my guide into it via his webmaster. Soon Bill arrived and we headed to look at a couple blue light fixtures and then to his condo for morning pix, a good time with no sun reflections to obstruct the film development. We cleaned up and staged room by room w